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Ruins of property
outbuildings near Coolah on the Narangie Road.
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Coolah
Service town located on no major route and consequently
dependent on the economic prosperity of the surrounding
rural area.
Coolah is the principal town of the Coolah Shire. It is
situated by the Coolaburragundy River, 89 km north-east of
Mudgee and 352 km from Sydney. It functions as a service
centre to the surrounding district which is given over to
the production of wheat, cattle, mixed farming, timber, fat
lambs and wool.
Prior to white settlement the area the Coolah valley was
occupied by the Kamilaroi and Wiradjuri peoples. In 1823
explorer Allan Cunningham became the first known European in
the district when he came across Pandora's Pass, the route
over the Warrumbungle Range on to the Liverpool Plains. The
district was surveyed in 1832 and squatters soon followed,
in search of fresh pastures.
The Black Stump Wine Saloon was established about 10 km
north of Coolah at a junction where the road split, heading
north-east to Gunnedah and north-west to Coonabarabran. The
pub was apparently named after the nearby Black Stump Run
and Black Stump Creek. As if to strengthen the claim it is
said the Aboriginal name for the area means 'place where the
fire went out and left a black stump'. For these reasons
locals argue that the Coolah area lies at the origin of the
Australian saying 'beyond the black stump', meaning beyond
the limits of civilisation, though it has other contenders
(see
Goolgowi).
The townsite of Coolah was first occupied in the 1840s.
By 1848 there was a slab blacksmith's and a slab hotel.
Local sandstone was used to construct more substantial
buildings in the 1870s.
The railway did not arrive until 1910. Before that time,
travellers en route to Sydney had to journey by a
horse-drawn vehicle to Mudgee, by Cobb & Co coach to Penrith
and then by rail to the city.
The Biennial Festival commenced on the weekend of October
30 to November 1, 1998. It is a garden festival entailing
the opening of some of the town's finest gardens with
displays, stalls and local arts and crafts. The Coolah Rodeo
is held each January and there is a Christmas Street
Carnival.
Things to see:
Tourist Information
The Black Stump Motel, 14 Campbell St, tel: (02) 6377 1208.
David Sherlock - Blacksmith
Located at 43 Martin St, David offers an opportunity to see
a smithy working in the traditional manner. Ring on (02)
6377 1077 or call at the rear of the premises via the back
lane.
Coolah Crafts
The craft shop has all manner of crafts and home-made
condiments. It is open from 10.00 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. daily at
37 Binnia St.
McMaster Park
McMaster Park, at the corner of Binnia and Booyamurra Sts,
has a pleasant garden and lawn area, a tourist guide map.
barbecues, play facilities and an early 20th-century bullock
wagon.
Coolah Tops National Park
NSW's most recently declared national park, Coolah Tops, is
situated on a plateau 30 km east of Coolah where the
Liverpool Range, the Warrumbungle Range and the Great
Dividing Range meet. Long occupied by the Kamilaroi
Aborigines, who have left numerous traces of their presence,
Allan Cunningham became the first known European in the area
in 1823.
The park is essentially eucalypt forest atop basalt
soils. Wildlife is abundant. One of the most prevalent
species is the greater glider, a one-metre-long possum which
can glide for up to 100 metres.
The Forest Road (unsealed) runs right through the park.
It is not to be used by any vehicles in wet weather. At the
park entrance is an information board. Another 3 km brings
you to a 1-km side road on the right that leads to a carpark
and picnic site from where there is a 1.5-km walking track
which leads to the spectacular Norfolk Falls and on to the
Bald Hill Creek Falls where there is a no-facilities bush
camping area.
Continue a short distance along The Forest Rd to Pinnacle
Rd which heads off to the left. You will soon come to a
short track on the left that leads to Cox Creek Falls
Camping Area. About another 700 m along Pinnacle Rd, to the
right, is the park's main campsite known as The Barracks
where there is an information bay and toilet-barbecue-picnic
facilities. Another 3 km along Pinnacle Rd a short side road
on the left leads to a carpark from whence there is a short
walk to Rocky Creek Falls where there are day facilities and
some fine lookout points along the escarpment where Rocky
Creek tumbles over the cliff.
As you continue north along Pinnacle Rd you will pass, on
the right-hand side of the road, the signposted departure
points for the Racecourse Walking Track (6 km) and, about
another kilometre north, the Bundella Walking Track (7 km).
The latter leads past a lookout area. The two eventually
join.
At the end of Pinnacle Rd there is a short walking track
to the Pinnacle Lookout, a steep basalt outcrop with fine
views to the north and west to the Warrumbungles. A rough
walking track heads south from the lookout to the basalt
caves (the largest being 70-m deep).
The park has a stand of the largest known snow gums in
existence. They can be found on the right-hand side of The
Forest Rd as you head east, about 22 km from Pinnacle Rd. A
walk through the stand is being organised and will soon be
signposted from The Forest Rd.
About 24 km east of Pinnacle Rd, on the left-hand side of
The Forest Rd, is Breeza Lookout which proffers extensive
views out over the Liverpool Plains. There is a small picnic
area and an information bay. If you are fit there is a short
but steep track from here to Shepherds Peak protruding from
the northern escarpment.
At the end of The Forest Rd, Jemmys Creek Trail (4WD
only) heads south where it joins the Merriwa-Cassilis Rd.
To get there head out of town on the road to Cassilis.
After 2 km turn left on to the Coolah Creek Rd. After about
19 km there is a turnoff on the right to Coolah Tops
National Park (see next entry).
Cunningham Memorial and Pandora's Pass
If you ignore the turnoff to the national park and stick to
the left it will take you, after 3 km, to a lovely picnic
site on the northern side of Coolah Creek where you will
find the Allan Cunningham Memorial.
In 1823 Cunningham became the first known European in the
district when he followed this route to Pandora's Pass which
took him over the Warrumbungle Range where he gazed down
upon the Liverpool Plains. The grazing potential of the
plains did not go unnoticed by the explorer and they quickly
attracted squatters in search of pastures.
If you continue north for 4 km it leads to Pandora's Pass
(815 m above sea-level). There are excellent views back over
the Coolah Valley and north over the Liverpool Plains.
Black Stump Nursery Rhyme Village and Camel Farm
The 'village' features 15 nursery rhyme characters. Camel
rides are available and there is a playground, barbecue
area, a log chapel, a matchstick work display, a souvenir
shop and nearby caves. Two-day and week-long camel safaris
to local waterfalls and caves can be arranged by prior
booking. The village is open from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.
seven days a week. To get there head south-west on the
Mudgee-Gilgandra road for about 5 km and there is a
signposted turnoff to the right.
The Black Stump Rest Area
There are several towns in Australia which lay some claim to
being at the origin of the saying 'beyond the black stump',
meaning beyond the limits of civilisation. The Black Stump
Wine Saloon was established about 10 km north of Coolah at a
junction where the road split, heading north-east to
Gunnedah and north-west to Coonabarabran. The pub was
apparently named after the nearby Black Stump Run and Black
Stump Creek. As if to strengthen the claim it is said the
Aboriginal name for the area means 'place where the fire
went out and left a black stump'.
A rest area has been established by the road at the
approximate site of the old saloon. There is, of course, a
black stump to mark the spot.
King Togee's Grave
For those with a keen interest in Aboriginal history, the
grave of King Togee is to be found 29 km west of Coolah on
the left-hand side of the Neilrex Rd, just past the
'Langdon' homestead. There is little to see other than a
weather-worn sandstone headstone surrounded by four white
posts with a sign overhead reading: 'TOGEE KING OF THE
BUTHEROE TRIBE'. King Togee was friendly with the early
settlers but was speared to death by a young man named
Cuttabush who later became the king of a Coonabarabran
sub-tribe.
Fossicking for Fossils
To access the Narangerie Leaf Fossil Bed head south-west on
the Dunedoo Rd for 18 km then turn right on to the
Narangerie Rd. The soft white rock of the roadside gravel
pit is 3 km along this road to the right.
Fishing
Rainbow trout can be found in the upper reaches of the
Coolaburragundy River during the trout season (first October
weekend to Easter). Yellowbelly, carp and catfish are caught
in the lower reaches.
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Coolah