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| The Grafton Two Storey
Bridge over the Clarence River |
Grafton
Substantial and attractive town on the NSW North Coast
Grafton has a very beautiful and very gracious city centre
characterised by wide streets, elegant Victorian buildings,
a superb location on the banks of the Clarence River, a
sense of solidity, and a long-standing concern with civic
beauty, manifest in the 6500 trees and 24 parks which adorn
the city. In fact, the first ornamental trees were planted
as early as 1874 and the city's famous jacaranda stands in
1907-08.
Grafton is located about 40 km due west of the coast and
625 km north-east of Sydney at the junction of the Pacific
and Gwydir Highways. The city is bisected by the Clarence
River which, for many years, proved a barrier to the
connection of the city centre (on the northern bank) with
Sydney.
The Clarence (known to Europeans as the 'Big River' until
1840), with its tributaries - the Nymboida, the Orara, the
Mann and the Coldstream - constitutes the largest river
system on the northern NSW coast. Draining over two million
hectares it contains over 100 islands, including Susan
Island which lies between Grafton and South Grafton.
With a population of 18 500, Grafton is the major
settlement on the Clarence River and the commercial centre
of an extensive agricultural and pastoral district. The
fertile river flats have encouraged dairying, sugarcane
plantations and mixed farming. Fishing, the raising of pigs
and cattle, the processing and marketing of primary produce
and engineering are also important.
The area was occupied by the Gumbaingirr Aborigines at
the time of European colonisation. It is thought that the
first whites in the area were convict escapees from Moreton
Bay who passed through the area in the late 1820s and early
1830s. One of their number, Richard Craig, reported a big
river and a plenitude of valuable timber when he arrived at
Port Macquarie in 1832. He was later employed by a Thomas
Small of Sydney who, inspired by Craig's reports, sent off
his brother and two dozen sawyers on board the schooner, the
Susan, to the 'Big River'. It was the first European vessel
to enter the river. Other cedar-cutters followed in their
wake. Small took up a large parcel of land on Woodford
Island, opening the way for other pastoralists along the
river that Governor Gipps named the Clarence in 1839.
A store and shipyard were established, on what is now
South Grafton in 1839 and shipbuilding would remain a major
local industry until the end of the century when the
railways began to dominate internal trade.
A wharf, store and inn adorned the northern bank by the
early 1840s . Until 1861, when a punt service commenced, the
only interaction between the two settlements was by
row-boat. This area was known collectively and imaginatively
as 'The Settlement'.
Twenty establishments were listed on the Clarence River
in 1841. The district was surveyed in 1843 and a police
magistrate appointed in 1846, at which time the population
was recorded as 120.
A township was laid out in 1849 and named after the Duke
of Grafton who was the grandfather of Governor Fitzroy. The
first land sale took place in the early 1850s, a school
opened in 1852 and the first Anglican church in 1854. The
population, by 1856, had grown to 1069.
Wharves were established in the 1850s and Grafton
benefited both from its location on the main coastal road to
the north and from gold discoveries on the upper Clarence
River. It soon became the major town on the Clarence and was
declared a municipality in 1859. That same year, Grafton
became home to both the Clarence and Richmond River Examiner
and the first National School north of the Hunter River.
Sugar-growing commenced in the 1860s but dairying
ultimately proved more successful. Development was further
stimulated by the commencement of selection in the 1860s. A
steam-driven vehicular ferry was established at this time.
Grafton was declared a city in the mid-1880s, by which
time its population had surpassed 4000. The arrival of the
railway at
Glen Innes in 1883 and the completion of the Casino to
North Grafton line in 1905, contributed to a slow decline in
Grafton's importance as a regional port although the river
trade chugged along until the 1950s.
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| The Grafton Two Storey
Bridge over the Clarence River |
In 1897 South Grafton established itself as a separate
municipality and the two settlements were not amalgamated
until 1956. This separation must have been due, in part, to
the absence of a bridge. Remarkably, this situation was not
rectified until 1932. It is even more remarkable when one
considers that the rolling-stock of the Sydney-Brisbane
railway (which reached South Grafton in 1915) had to be
ferried across until that time. Still, when it did arrive it
was a most unique construction, consisting of two storeys
with the railway running underneath the road. It was,
furthermore, a lift bridge, although the decline of the
river trade saw the lift section sealed.
Poet Henry Kendall lived here as a child until 1852, only
to return in the early 1860s when he worked as a clerk for
solicitor and fellow-poet J.L. Michael who drowned in the
river in 1868. The founder of the Country Party, Earle Page,
was born at Grafton in 1880.
The Grafton Jazz and Blues Festival is held at Easter and
the week-long Jacaranda Festival commences on the last
Saturday of October, culminating in a street parade the
following weekend. Community markets are held on the last
Saturday of each month at the Alumny Creek Reserve, just out
of Grafton on the Southgate Rd.
Things to see:
Tourist Information
The Clarence River Tourist Centre, at the corner of Spring
St and the Pacific Highway in South Grafton, has a
theatrette and displays of Aboriginal art, as well as all
the information you need about the area, including a
brochure on Grafton's beautiful collection of trees, a
Heritage Trail, a self-drive tour of the area, houseboat
availability, tours of a sugarcane farm, a dairy farm and
Tooheys brewery, joy flights, canoe and fishing tours,
gliding, scenic drives, Harley Davidson tours, farm holidays
and excursions, horseriding, package holidays, National
Parks information and a list of arts, crafts and antique
shops, tel: (02) 6642 4677.
Heritage Walk
Within the city centre there are a number of particularly
impressive buildings. Victoria, Fitzroy and Prince Sts
contain most of the city's civic architecture while Oliver,
Mary and Alice Sts contain a number of fine residences.
Start your journey at Memorial Park, adjacent the river
at the end of Prince St (the main street of Grafton). At 1
Prince St is the Crown Hotel-Motel, built on the site of
Grafton's first hotel (1841). It overlooks the levee bank
and Susan Island.
Walk along to the Victoria St corner. Turn right into
Victoria St. To your right is the post office (1874) with
its weighty sandstone colonnades. Just past it is the
excellent Classical Revival courthouse (1877-80) with its
colonnaded and stone-flagged verandah, gabled central
section and intricate fretwork under the eaves. Adjacent is
the former police station (1881) which was conceived as an
harmonious complement to the courthouse. It is built of the
same local bricks and features many identical architectural
elements. The original courthouse (1860-62) once stood to
its rear and the footings remain. All three buildings were
designed by colonial architect, James Barnet.
Across the road are three adjacent buildings of historic
interest. At 58 Victoria St is the Post Office Hotel (1860).
Next door is Foott Law & Co Solicitors (c.1880) and, at 54,
is Fitzgeralds Chambers (1908) - a two-storey Classical
Revival building.
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| Christ Church Cathedral
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The Christ Church Anglican Cathedral
Christ Church Cathedral is located on the corner of Victoria
St and Duke St. The foundation stone was laid in 1874.
Designed by distinguished Canadian architect, J. Horbury
Hunt, the principal construction work was carried out
between 1880 and 1884, with the western portion and Duke St
entry added in 1934 (to Hunt's design). Hunt's spire was
never built.
The salmon-coloured bricks were locally manufactured from
over 100 different design moulds. The roof trusses in the
sanctuary and nave are of particular distinction. The
louvres were a concession to the climate. It is open for
inspection every day with guides available for groups.
The small church hall to the rear (c.1890) was also
designed by Hunt and was intended for less formal
activities. Of the two adjacent cottages, one dates from the
early 1850s and one from c.1890. The former is now the
Cathedral Bookshop and the latter the Cathedral Ministry
Centre.
Across the road is the deanery, built 1872 as a rectory.
It is surrounded by a verandah and fine gardens.
Heritage Walk Continued
Walk back along Victoria St across Prince St. At 85 Victoria
St is Roches Family Hotel (c.1870). At 95 is 'Istria'
(1899), an early Edwardian residence. The cottage at 140
Victoria St remains virtually unchanged since it was built
in the 1860s and at 150 Victoria St is 'Arcola' (1907) -
arguably the town's best example of Edwardian architecture.
From the end of Victoria St turn into Alice St and cross
over Fitzroy St. At 11 and 13 Alice St are 'Abbotsford' and
'Bronte', a pair of decorative Federation-style houses
dating from the first decade of the 20th century. Of
particular note are the timber decoration, the detailed
chimneys and the rooves.
Return to Fitzroy St. At no. 213 is 'Verona' (1876). This
building was originally in red brick and was extended in
1971.
Schaeffer House Museum
At 192 Fitzroy St is Schaeffer House (originally 'Kia-Ora').
Built from 1901 to 1903 it now houses the local historical
society's museum. One of the city's most attractive homes,
it was built by local architect Frederick Schaeffer and is
open from 1.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m., Tuesday to Thursday and
from 2.00 p.m. to 4.00 pm. on Sunday, tel: (02) 6642 5212.
Almost opposite the museum, at 197 Fitzroy St, is
'Ulverstone', built in 1878 with extensive alterations and
additions in 1906. At 177 Fitzroy St is a residence
virtually unchanged since its construction in the 1870s.
Grafton Regional Gallery
Grafton Regional Art Gallery is located in Prentice House,
an historic home at 158 Fitzroy St dating from 1880. It is
open from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. every day but Monday, tel:
(02) 6642 3177.
Heritage Walk Continued
At the corner of Prince and Fitzroy Sts is one of the town's
finest commercial buildings - the former CBC Bank (1877),
now the National Australia Bank Building. Built in sandstone
with a slate roof and cast-iron decoration, the striped
colour scheme is authentic. It was one of the town's first
buildings to have its first floor elevated above flood
level.
At 149 Prince St is the old Daily Examiner building
(1861), built two years after the newspaper (still in
operation) commenced publication.
At the corner of Prince and Pound Sts is Weileys Hotel.
It was built in 1909 to replace the original which had been
destroyed by fire. Opposite is Market Square: a fine park
adjacent the clock tower.
Continue north along Prince St for two more blocks then
turn right into Oliver St. To the right is St Andrew's
Presbyterian Church (1886).
Back on Prince St, between Fry and Dobie, is the T.J.
Ford Pavilion (c.1884) at the showgrounds. At 207 Prince St
is the former Max Johnston Food Store, built in the 1860s as
the European Hotel.
You may wish to conclude your walk here. The fit or
enthusiastic may want to continue north for three blocks to
Arthur St and turn left for one block. At Queen and Arthur
is the Grafton Gaol complex (1893). The buildings are of the
highest quality with some fine decorative detailing
throughout. However, non-inmates may satisfy themselves with
the ornate entranceway and elaborately moulded timber gates.
Continue along Arthur St for two more blocks and turn
left into Alice St. At no.137, is 'Rosslyn' (1879), one of
the city's better residences which remains largely
unaltered.
Turn left into Fry St then right into Mary St. The
impressive building at no. 97 is the former grammar school
(1878).
South Grafton Heritage Walk
South Grafton is a real surprise. For those who think all
the old buildings are concentrated in Grafton, this
19th-century river town is worth a visit. It has a number of
impressive buildings including St Matthew's Anglican Church
(1886), at the corner of Through St and Summerland Way (the
road which leads across the bridge). It contains
stained-glass windows from the English chapel of the Duke of
Grafton, after whom the town is named.
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| The Post Office, South
Grafton |
Walk along Through St to the Skinner St corner where
there is a marina overlooking Susan Island. At 90 Through St
is Walkers Marina Hotel (1909). At 75 Skinner St is the Post
Office Hotel and St Patrick's Catholic Church (1881) is
located at the corner of Skinner and Ryan Sts. Opposite is
the post office and nearby are the former council chambers.
Also on the south side of the Clarence River, just a few
hundred metres upstream from the bridge, are the rusty
remains of an old boat which, it is claimed, was used by
Winston Churchill during the Boer War. How does one check
such an improbable story?
Susan Island
Susan Island is a nature reserve located in the middle of
the Clarence River, between Grafton and South Grafton. It
was named after the Susan which became the first ship to
enter the Clarence River in 1838. On board was a crew of
cedar-getters led by ex-convict Richard Craig who, as an
escapee seven years earlier, had made the first European
report of the 'Big River'.
The western section is dominated by a rainforest which is
inhabited by a large colony of fruit bats and the island has
strong links with Aboriginal history and culture. There is a
walking trail with interpretive signage on the island, as
well as toilets and picnic facilities.
The only access is by private boat or canoe although the
National Parks and Wildlife Service run excursions to the
island on Australia Day and sometimes organise educational
excursions during school holidays, tel: (02) 6640 3910.
Canoes can be hired from Grafton Great Outdoors at 93 Bent
St, tel: (02) 6643 3922. There is a jetty at the end of
Prince St. Landings can be made at the eastern end of the
island.
Lawrence
It is possible to drive north-east from Grafton, following
the northern bank of the Clarence River, to Lawrence which
is a pretty town at the confluence of the river and
Sportsmans Creek. The creek is a good spot for bass fishing,
canoeing and birdwatching. The sand spits adjacent town are
also good for anglers. There are a couple of boat ramps, a
tavern and a 9-hole golf course. A 24-hour vehicular ferry
will take you across to Illarwill on Woodford Island (see
entry on Maclean) although the ferry is closed on Tuesdays from
9.30 a.m. to 11.00 a.m.
Yuraygir National Park
15 km south of Grafton , Minnie Water Rd heads east off the
Pacific Highway to the central section of Yuraygir National
Park which spans 60 km of coastline from Angourie in the
north to Red Rock in the south. For further information, see
entry on Wooli.
Washpool National Park
88 km north-west of Grafton along the Gwydir Highway,
Coombadjha Rd heads off to the right into World Heritage
listed Washpool National Park, which includes the largest
undisturbed rainforest in NSW and the world's largest
remaining undisturbed stand of coachwood forest. The plateau
upon which it stands rises to 1200 m above sea-level and the
Washpool and Coombadjha Creeks have carved gorges through
the plateau.
Less than a kilometre along Coombadjha Rd a side road
heads off to the left to The Granite where there is a picnic
area and a 700-m walking track to a lookout which takes in
the south-eastern section of the park.
Coombadjha Rd leads past three clearings - the Bellbird
Rest Area, the Coachwood Picnic Area, and the Coombadjha
Creek Rest Area from whence there are two walks: the 1.1-km
Coombadjha Nature Stroll and the Washpool Walk (10 km
return). Ring (02) 6732 5133 for further information.
Gibraltar Range National Park
3 km past Coombadjha Rd is a turnoff on the left into
Mulligans Rd. This is the main access road into Gibraltar
Range National Park which is located in high granite
country, dominated by eucalypt forest. It is an ideal place
for bushwalking. There are large numbers of wildflowers in
the warmer months and a plenitude of wildlife.
10 km along Mulligans Rd is the Mulligans Hut Rest Area
on the western bank of Little Dandahra Creek. William
Mulligan was a pioneering advocate of hydro-electric power
on the Nymboida River. He built his hut in 1924 while
establishing hydro-power for sawmills in the mountains.
Today there are campsites, showers, toilets, fireplaces
and tables. There are various swimming holes along the creek
and, in the school holidays, the rangers sometimes put on an
evening campfire program for visitors.
Five walking trails depart from Mulligans leading to the
beautiful Dandahra Falls, the Barra Nula Cascades, the
Atrichornis/Murrumbooee Cascades, Tree Fern Forest and The
Needles. The latter are six separate granite outcrops which,
according to Aboriginal lore, are six sisters turned to
stone by the curse of their pursuer.
There is also a picnic area just off the highway in
Mulligans Rd and two walking tracks depart from a point
about 3 km along the road. One heads south to Anvil Rock (4
km return). The other heads south-west to the spectacular
Dandahra Crags (5 km return).
5 km west of Mulligans Rd, another road heads off the
Gwydir Highway to the left, leading to Raspberry Lookout
where there are picnic tables and excellent views. Another
kilometre along the highway, to the right, is Boundary Falls
Rd which will take you to the falls of the same name. From
there you can walk 1 km downstream to the beautiful Lyrebird
Falls. Ring (02) 6732 5133 for further information.
Nymboida National Park
This 19000-ha area incorporates parts of the Mann and
Nymboida Rivers, considered among the best canoeing and
white-water rafting rivers in eastern Australia. The terrain
is rugged but scenic and the riverflats make attractive bush
campsites. Access is strictly via 4WD.
To get there head out of Grafton along the Gwydir Highway
for about 9 km then turn left onto the Old Glen Innes Rd at
the Hilldrop Motor Inn. About 40 km from Grafton, at the top
of the Buccarumbi Range, turn right onto the road signposted
for Ramornie Forest Camping Area. 6.9 km from Old Glen Innes
Rd, turn right, over the ramp. Facilities are basic. Access
within the park is via canoe along the Nymboida River from
Buccarumbi or by foot. It is advisable to obtain a mud map
before setting off, tel: (02) 6640 3910.
Old Glen Innes Rd
The Old Glen Innes Road continues westwards from this point,
passing through some outstanding mountain and riverside
scenery, looping back to the highway after 100 km (mostly
unsealed). Until the present highway opened this was a main
access road to the coast. The original bush track was cut by
wool haulers and timbergetters in the early 1840s. With
convict labour a proper road was created in the 1860s and it
was declared a highway in 1876.
At Buccarumbi, 50 km from the highway, the remains of a
bridge ruined by flood sit beside the new bridge.
11 km past the bridge, just across a cattle grid, are a
half-dozen marked graves to the right in open bushland which
date back to the 1830s.
8 km on is the abandoned settlement of Dalmorton. All
that remains are some ruins in the paddocks where cattle
graze amidst the attractive scenery. A cleared area on the
left, one kilometre beyond Jackass Creek, allows cars to
pull off the road and a walking track leads 500 m into the
bush where you can find relics from the goldmining which
occurred here in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
8 km beyond Dalmorton you will come to a 20-metre tunnel
carved through solid rock by convicts when the road was
constructed. It is the only one of its type in Australia.
About 48 more kilometres will bring you to the Mann River
Nature Reserve where there is a picnic area with
opportunities for bush camping, fishing, canoeing and
bushwalking. The road soon ascends Big Hill in a series of
hairpin bends, offering some fine views to passengers,
before returning to the highway 35 km from
Glen Innes.
Lower Clarence Aboriginal Tourist Site Drive
The information centre can furnish a self-drive pamphlet
outlining 13 significant Aboriginal sites in the area.
Fishing
The Tourist Centre possesses two excellent single-sheet
pamphlets entitled 'Bass Fishing in the Clarence River' and
'Fishing Around Grafton'. The former contains valuable
practical information about the feeding habits of the bass,
the times of the day and of the year that are most rewarding
and advice concerning lures, tackle, techniques, clothing,
accessories etc. The latter looks more generally at the
types of fish in the area which can vary with weather
conditions. Freshwater species, apart from the Australian
bass, are snub-nosed garfish, long-finned eel, estuary
perch, eastern freshwater cod, eel-tailed catfish and
pink-eye mullet.
'Fishing Around Grafton' considers the conditions that
affect species availability, means of identification,
recommended rigging and baits, bag and size limits and
scarcity.
There are a number of boat ramps in Grafton and several
jetties. Most are on the river's northern shore. There is a
jetty and boat ramp at the river end of Prince St (by the
Crown Hotel), another jetty at the river end of Breimba St,
a boat ramp at the eastern end of Fry St and a jetty and
boat ramp at the southern end of Corcoran Park (Kirchner
St). Corcoran Park has a second ramp, located off the road
which runs into the park off Kirchner St. South Grafton
boasts a marina and boat ramp in Skinner St.
Just downstream of the town the river is wide and quite
beautiful and tends to become brackish. Upstream of Grafton
there is a boat ramp on Carrs Peninsula Road at Junction
Hill, and two associated with Seelands - at Eastlands Park
(Old Punt Road) and the Big Ski River Lodge. It is also
possible to slide small boats and canoes down the banks.
However, this area is known for its white water so only the
experienced should try their hand.
Anglers in non-tidal waterways must purchase a licence at
a cost of $10 for one month, $25 for one year or $70 for
three years. Local outlets selling licences are McLachlans
Sports Store at 87 Fitzroy St (tel: 02 6642 2325) and the
Grafton Great Outdoor Centre at 93 Bent St, tel: (02) 6643
3922. The latter also sells tackle and hires out canoes. If
you have a credit card you can pay for a licence by ringing
the NSW Fisheries on 1300 369 365. They publish a pamphlet
entitled 'Marine Recreational Fishing in New South Wales'.
It looks at official bag and size limits, protected species,
permitted gear, spearfishing regulations, penalties and the
location of its offices. The fisheries website is
www.fisheries.nsw.gov.au
Tackle is also available from Tarrant's Barber Shop at
South Grafton, tel: (02) 6642 4744. Boats can also be hired
from Seelands Boat Hire, tel: (02) 6644 9381. Houseboats are
available from Yamba (tel: 02 6645 8067) and Brushgrove, tel:
(02) 6647 6232. Fishing charter operators are located at
Wooli (tel: 02 6649 7100) and Yamba, tel: (02) 6643 9041.
Hired boats are not permitted closer than 1 km to the river
entrance.
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Grafton
