Japps Pharmacy and the Post Office

 

Hay (including Oxley)
Substantial and historic service centre in the heart of the Riverina.
Hay is an important pastoral town of the Riverina area. Located 728 km west of Sydney via the Great and Mid Western Highways it is situated alongside the Murrumbidgee River at the junction of the Sturt, Cobb and Mid Western Highways, halfway between Sydney and Adelaide. 94 m above sea-level and with a population of 2817 it is surrounded by completely flat, open, treeless saltbush plains. Indeed the road from Hay to Maude is as flat as western Queensland or the Nullarbor Plain.

Joseph Furphy, who lived in Hay while bullock carting about the region in the 1870s, set much of his famous novel Such is Life (1903) within the district. This descriptive passage from the novel provides some insight into the terrain about Hay: 'the dark boundary of the scrub country disappears northward in the glassy haze, and in front, southward, the level black-soil plains of Riverina proper mark a straight sky-line, broken here and there by a monumental clump or pine-ridge. And away beyond the horizon, southward still, the geodesic curve carries that monotony across the zone of salt-bush, myall and swamp box; across the Lachlan and Murrumbidgee and on to the Victorian border.'

 

The road between Hay and Balranald

 

This flatness makes the tree-lined streets of Hay (very attractive in autumn) ideal for bicycles, which are a common sight around town. Hay is also the centre of an area which is known as the best medium merino wool region in Australia. Some of the local studs are famous in pastoral circles - Mungadal, Uardry and Cedar Grove. Mungadal lies west of town adjacent the Sturt Highway. The Uardry property supplied the image of the ram for the former Australian shilling.

The introduction of an irrigation scheme in the 1950s expanded the range of production. Today Hay has rice and feed crops. Other sources of local income include the market gardens, grains, legumes, cattle and fat lambs.

The Ngiyambaa or Nari-nari Aborigines inhabited the area prior to white settlement. Charles Sturt explored the Murray and Murrumbidgee Rivers in 1829-30 passing by the future townsite in his whaleboat. There is a monument in Sturt Park (Lachlan St) to commemorate his journey.

Squatters followed in Sturt's wake. The 'Illiliwa' run, established in the 1840s, contained the land on which northern Hay would later be built. The neighbouring station was owned by John Tooth. Hay South would develop on land that was part of the 'Eli-Elwah' run of William Guise and the Mungadingadal (now Mungadal) run was occupied by the Lang Brothers. On their property was an important river crossing. At such locations stockmen, headed south to the Victorian markets, or north to pasture, would rest themselves and their cattle before fording the river. Consequently, the locale was initially known to Europeans as Lang's Crossing.

River-steamer captain Francis Cadell (see entry on Jerilderie) built a store at the crossing in 1858. When American Henry Leonard set up a punt service then built a hotel, a local squatter pulled a section of it down with a bullock team. It was Leonard's appeal to the government for assistance that led to the opening of the Murrumbidgee Punt Hotel and the establishment of the township, which was gazetted in 1859. The initial title of 'Waradgery' was abandoned and the town was named after local parliamentarian John Hay.

The first courthouse was erected in 1860 on the site of the present post office. Cobb & Co, made Hay the headquarters of their Victoria and Riverina operations from 1862 to 1896. The arrival of the company's coaches, feed wagons, 20 drivers, 103 horses, plus cooks and ostlers was greeted with a brass band. They set up a coach factory at the corner of Lachlan and Simpson streets in 1877.

Hay was also a major river port for the Lachlan squatting district. It was declared a municipality in 1872.

The years between 1865 and 1900 saw the population swell from 300 to 3000. The town's importance was apparent when it was chosen as the site of the procathedral and base of operations for the bishop when the Goulburn diocese was divided in 1884 to form the Riverina diocese.

In World War II Hay was used as a POW and internment centre. The process got under way in 1940 with the construction of three internment camps. The first arrivals, unfortunately, were 2036 Jewish internees from Nazi Germany and Austria - mostly professionals who had simply fled for their lives - along with 451 German and Italian POWs. They were transported from England on-board the 'Dunera,' hence the moniker 'the Dunera Boys,' which was applied, in particular to the Jewish refugees.

Conditions on the ship were appalling. The passengers were not allowed to leave the ship during stopovers and were rarely permitted on deck and, when they did, the British crew scattered bottles in their path to deter them. Conditions were also unsanitary.

In circumstances reminiscent of events in recent years, the refugees (and POWs) were transported to Hay via train and then placed in the camps behind barbed wire. They remained active, holding physical education courses and concerts, teaching the children and printing their own money. All of these internees were moved to Tatura in May 1941.

A ferw weeks later, about 2000 Italian POWs arrived from the battlefields of Egypt. They worked at farming practices, making the camps largely self-sufficient. Only one escaped and he spent six months in Melbourne before being recaptured.

In December of 1941 Japanese internees were conveyed to the camp from Cowra. Unfortunately, a number of them were merely Australians from Broome who were descended from Japanese stock; some of whom had never been to Japan.

The repatriation of the POWs was carried out in 1946 and the camp was dismantled and all building materials auctioned in 1947.

There was a reunion of these internees in 1990 and a memorial has been placed on Showground Rd, opposite the Hay Town Bush Fire Headquarters (past the showground). More recently an interpretive centre on the subject has been set up at the old railway station.

Ironically, after the war, Italian migrants arrived in Hay and established market gardens.

Things to see:  

Visitors Information Centre
The visitor's information centre at 407 Moppett St, near the corner with Lachlan St (the Cobb Highway), has pamphlets which will take you on heritage walks about the town. They also have hot showers, toilets, baby-change facilities and electronic tourist information, all available 24 hours a day. Nearby, in the coach pavilion, is 'Sunbeam', a Cobb & Co. coach. Built locally in 1886 it ran on the Deniliquin to Wilcannia line and was used in the Mad Dog Morgan film in 1975. On the other side of Moppett St, on its original site, is an ornate, cast-iron fountain given to the town in 1883 by its mayor, John Witcombe.

 

Historic Buildings
Heading south along Lachlan St, between Moppett and Bank Sts are several public and commercial buildings which make a fine contribution to the main street. The shire office (1877), with its stout verandah posts, was originally the town's second courthouse. The lands office (1896), also notable for its verandah posts, as well as for the railing and windows, was one of the first such buildings to be designed for the outback climate. The post office (1881), with its multiple arches and beautiful cast-iron railing along the second storey balcony was designed by James Barnet. It is situated on the site of the town's first courthouse and lockup. The clock tower was added in 1901. The Westpac Bank building, erected in 1877, originally housed the A.J.S. Bank. Opposite the post office is Japp's Pharmacy, again with attractive turned timber posts and some highly ornate cast-iron lacework along the upstairs balcony.

Take the right into Bank St. About halfway along the block is St Andrew's Presbyterian Church. The oldest known building in Hay it went up in 1872; the vestry and schoolroom were built in 1892. Take the first right into Pine St and, on the corner with Orson St, is the old Presentation Convent. Built in 1900 it has a beautiful front door of painted glass, French tiles on the roof and Wunderlich panelling inside.

Back at Moppett St is the substantial and stately brick courthouse. The town's fourth it was built in 1892 with some alterations made in 1920. The original slate roof has been replaced with tiles and the interior panelling replaced with Queensland maple but the whole has been carefully restored. There are stained-glass windows, marble fireplaces and furniture dating back to 1818. The verandah is of solid brick with arches. On the other side of Pine St is the old Masonic Lodge (1878).

North along Pine St, across Moppett, is St Paul's Anglican Church (1885), the procathedral for the diocese of the Riverina. Opposite is Hay Park with children's playground, aviary, duck pond, barbecue and picnic facilities and beautiful Morton Bay fig trees.

Continue north to Murray St. On the southern corner is the old Terminus Hotel. Built before 1880 it served railway passengers from 1882 until it was delicensed in 1940. Over the road is the elaborate Victorian bonded brick railway station (1882) with ornate ridges hanging from the roof. Both these and the platform verandah columns are of cast iron. The central section is two storeys high, the surrounding area has been landscaped and the whole has been returned to its original heritage colours. All up it is an impressive and generally intact landmark.

Railway cottages built for porters, drivers and tappers are located at 429-439 Murray St. Also dating from 1882 they are considered good surviving examples of low-cost government housing in the late Victorian period. The station master's residence, like the station itself, was built by Charles Hardy in 1882. The last train ran in 1983.

 

 

Inside the cell area of the Hay Gaol

 

Hay Gaol Museum
Turn back along Pine St and take the second left into Church St. Over Piper St, to your left, is Hay Gaol Museum. The gaol complex was built in 1879 to replace an earlier prison (probably dating from 1871) and has had an interesting history. Despite architecturally inappropriate additions and alterations it remains a good example of a Victorian country-town gaol. It was mostly used for short-term offenders from the district. Closed in 1915 it became a maternity hospital from 1921. It resumed operations as a prison again in 1930, doubling as a lock-up for those waiting to have their sanity assessed. Those found sane were released, those found insane were sent to a mental hospital.

In World War II the gaol was used in connection with the POW camps. After the last POWs were repatriated in 1947 it was largely abandoned. Then, in 1961, it was made into an experimental centre for incorrigible girls. Ringleaders from the Parramatta detention centre were sent to Hay for three months of constant surveillance, supervision and extremely tight disciplinary, dress and behavioural codes. This phase of the building's existence ended in 1974. Hay Gaol now operates as a museum and cultural centre where artifacts of local history are stored and displayed. It is open from 9-5 daily (03 6993 1003).

 

Hay Gaol

 

 

Shear Outback, Australian Shearer's Hall of Fame
Located on the Sturt Highway at Hay and called Shear Outback this new tourism initiative, opened in 2002, describes itself as providing "visitors with a contemporary and innovative museum experience. Showcasing the stories, artefacts, technology and culture of the Australian shearing industry, the facility comprises an iconic 'purpose built' interpretative centre and an historic woolshed relocated from the banks of the Murray River."

Shear Outback is a complete experience of shearing and sheep. There are five separate aspects of the experience starting with The Shearer's Hall of Fame which honours the achievements of shearers and the sheep industry. There are also an interactive experience, a Murray Downs shearing shed and an extensive historic archive. The Museum is open 9.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m. daily. The attractions include shearing demonstrations at 10.30 a.m., 1.00 p.m., and 3.30 p.m. although these times can vary depending on weather conditions and visitor numbers. Admission to the museum costs: Adults $15, Concession $10, Children (under 12) $8, Family $35. Group bookings are available upon application.

 

Hay Prisoner of War and Internment Camp Interpretive Centre
Situated within two restored train carriages, at the old railway station in Murray St, the display relates to the internment camps in Hay. The process got under way in 1940 with the construction of three internment camps. The first arrivals, unfortunately, were 2036 Jewish internees from Nazi Germany and Austria - mostly professionals who had simply fled for their lives - along with 451 German and Italian POWs. They were transported from England on-board the 'Dunera,' hence the moniker 'the Dunera Boys,' which was applied, in particular to the Jewish refugees.

Conditions on the ship were appalling. The passengers were not allowed to leave the ship during stopovers and were rarely permitted on deck and, when they did, the British crew scattered bottles in their path to deter them. Conditions were also unsanitary.

In circumstances reminiscent of events in recent years, the refugees (and POWs) were transported to Hay via train and then placed in the camps behind barbed wire. They remained active, holding physical education courses and concerts, teaching the children and printing their own money. All of these internees were moved to Tatura in May 1941.

A ferw weeks later, about 2000 Italian POWs arrived from the battlefields of Egypt. They worked at farming practices, making the camps largely self-sufficient. Only one escaped and he spent six months in Melbourne before being recaptured.

In December of 1941 Japanese internees were conveyed to the camp from Cowra. Unfortunately, a number of them were merely Australians from Broome who were descended from Japanese stock; some of whom had never been to Japan.

The repatriation of the POWs was carried out in 1946 and the camp was dismantled and all building materials auctioned in 1947. There was a reunion of internees in 1990. The Centre is open weekdays from 9.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. and entry is currently $2, tel: (02) 6993 4045.

 

Bishop's Lodge
If you head east at the roundabout at the southern end of town, along Moama St (the Sturt Highway), you will find, to your left, Bishop's Lodge, the former residence of the first Anglican bishop of the Riverina, Sydney Linton, who supervised its construction in 1888. Somewhat unusual architecturally this Victorian villa was built of corrugated iron and timber, with sawdust for insulation. It has been restored and the exterior paintwork returned to its original colours. Surrounded by a magnificent nineteenth-century garden it is currently open for inspection from 2-4 every Saturday for tours and at other times by appointment (02 6993 1861). The Lodge is also available as an exhibition and conference centre. Just up the road, to the right, is Ruberto's Winery.

 

Water Activities
There are several large sandy beaches along the river for swimming, boating, canoeing, waterskiing and fishing for golden perch, silver bream, Murray cod, redfin, catfish, Murray crayfish and yabbies. Sandy Point Beach at the end of Water St has a boat ramp. Soap Works Beach, 1 km down the road to Maude (Cadell St), has a picnic area and is a safe swimming spot. 13 km along this road is Hay Weir which has picnic and free electric barbecue facilities. Just downstream is a fishing spot known as Fisherman's Palteau.

 

Sturt's Marked Tree
4 km east of Hay , on the Mid Western Highway, is Sturt's Marked Tree, a box tree famous for the markings which Charles Sturt carved upon it in 1829. There is a nature track which follows the river around Hay and just out of town is Hay Wetlands Nature Reserve which is home to an array of waterbirds, best seen either at dawn or dusk, especially in springtime when the birds nest.

 

One Tree Hotel
The One Tree Hotel is 38 km north on land that was originally a pastoral holding. It was built in 1862 as Finch's Inn and served as a staging post on the Cobb & Co. run between Hay and Wilcannia until that service ended in 1914. Here the passengers would disembark for lunch and a rest while the horse team was changed. William Clark bought the hotel off Alexander Finch and he leased the huge government tank nearby which watered up to 12,000 sheep at a time. Horse and bullock teams of up to a thousand in number were watered at the charge of a penny per head. The inn was purchased by the McQuade family in the 1880s who still own it. Although the original structure burned down in 1901 the insurance claim stated that recompense could only be made if the building was rebuilt exactly as it had been so the current hotel is a replica. The license lapsed in the 1940s when it became a private residence. It is currently derelict but worth a look. One Tree was proclaimed a village in 1885 though it never grew and the old building is a lone sentinel on the plains today.

One Tree is halfway to Booligal, made famous by 'Banjo' Paterson's poem 'Hay, Hell and Booligal'. It is thought that the 'Hell' refers to Hells Gate, a property which lies between Hay and Balranald.

 

 

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Hay