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Remnants of the Stamp
Battery and Sluicing Equipment which were used at
New Chum Hill near Kiandra |
Kiandra
Historic goldmining town now little more than a ghost
town.
Today Kiandra is literally one old house, a Court House
which is used to store equipment, some ruins and enough
memories to bring the whole cold and lonely valley alive. In
its heyday it was a true gold rush town which rose and fell
in less than a year. At its height it attracted over 10 000
men, women and children and saw the construction of banks,
hotels and the usual services required by such a large
population. In less than a year most of the gold was gone
and the population was reduced to a 200-300. A hundred years
later it was a ghost town standing forlornly on plains
which, even in summertime, look lonely, glaciated and cold.
Kiandra (it was originally called Giandara or Giandarra
Plain - the term may have meant 'sharp stone' in the
language of the local Aborigines) has an elevation of 1400
metres and was, until the establishment of Cabramurra, the
highest township in Australia.
Kiandra's moment of glory occurred in a few months from
1859-1860. The rush broke out after payable gold was
discovered by David and James Pollock (two men who had been
bringing their cattle to graze on the summer pastures in the
area for some years) in what became known as Pollock's Gully
in November 1859. People came from all over Australia and
what had once been isolated grazing country suddenly became
a boom town. By March 1860 there were more than 10 000
people on the goldfields. Several thousand endured the
winter snows. They were ill-prepared and many were forced to
see out the winter in canvas tents. However the rewards were
extraordinary. The Sydney Morning Herald of 25 February 1860
reported: 'One party before dinner got 176 oz (4981 grams)
and another got one lump weighing 19 lb (8603 grams).'
These rewards were short lived. The rich and shallow
alluvial gold was worked out in a year and by March 1861 the
Sydney Morning Herald was reporting 'Great exodus from
Kiandra...nearly all gone to Lambing Flat'. Late in 1861
Kiandra's population had dropped to 250.
The gold escort removed 67 687 ozs (19 155 kg) in 1860
and 16 567 ozs (4688 kg) in 1861. The official total
production was 172 000 ozs (48 676 kg). The gold was mostly
alluvial and large nuggets up to 28 pounds (12 678 gm) in
weight were found.
Mining continued on a small scale until about 1905 but
most of this was done by sluicing and dredging.
What is left of Kiandra is located on the Snowy Mountains
Highway no more than 300 metres from the turnoff to Mt
Selwyn and Cabramurra. It is an indictment of the NSW
National Parks and Wildlife Service that many of the old
buildings were burnt or bulldozed by the service in an act
of extraordinary historical vandalism. Not surprisingly it
is hard to find anyone in the Snowy Mountains area who has a
kind word to say about Parks and Wildlife.
All that is now left of the old township is the
courthouse and some ruins.
Over the years Kiandra has developed a remarkable skiing
mythology. It has been suggested that the first skiing
competition and the first ski club in the world were
established in Kiandra. These are dubious claims. Certainly
it is known that the residents of Kiandra were skiing in
1861 after some Norwegian miners had shown other miners how
to convert a fence post into a workable ski and certainly by
the 1870s there were competitions and a ski club had been
established in the area. But whether these competitions and
the club were the first in the world is anyone's guess. The
argument is based on the proposition that Canadians,
Americans and Europeans had only ever used skis as a means
of winter transport. In Kiandra they were used for sporting
activities. One thing is certain - Kiandra, being the
highest town in Australia until the establishment of
Cabramurra, was the first Australian town where skiing was
commonplace in wintertime.
Things to see:
Kiandra's Heritage Trail
The first Kiandra Courthouse was built in 1860 as part of
the Police Commissioner's Camp. By the 1870s the building
was being used as a barn. The second Court House, which was
also the local lockup and the police headquarters, was
completed in 1890. It was built from local basalt and is a
typical country town court house designed by the Colonial
Architect, James Barnet. Most of the court cases were either
about drunkenness or were disputes about gold claims and
water rights. The Court House closed in 1937 and within a
few years it had become the Kiandra Chalet. The owner
encouraged winter visitors by operating a ski rope tow. For
many years the Kiandra Pioneer Ski Club held a club license
at the chalet. The Chalet enjoyed great popularity during
the construction of the Snowy Mountains Scheme but it
declined and was closed in 1973. It is now a depot for the
Department of Main Roads.
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Matthew's Cottage
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The most interesting thing about Kiandra at the moment is
a recently established Heritage Trail. This trail is
remarkably simple. Starting at the Court House the visitor
is led through the marshy grasslands to the site of the
Church of the Ascension, the Post & Telegraph Office,
Matthew's Cottage (which is still standing), the Alpine
Hotel, the School of Arts, Yan's Store (now a ruin), the
Kiandra Hotel, the Teacher's Residence, the Dance Hall, the
School, the Kiandra Pioneer Ski Club and the Wolgal Club.
The walk is pleasant and easy and the plaques are detailed
and informative. It is a rare opportunity to imagine what
life was like in Kiandra during those heady days in 1860
when the area seemed to be running with gold. The trail
stops at the locations of buildings and also passes water
races, mullock heaps and other physical remains of the gold
rush.
New Chum Hill
On the road to Mt Selwyn visitors pass the scars on New Chum
Hill which recall the activity which characterised this find
and subsequently led to fairly elaborate sluicing equipment
being brought in. Less than half a kilometre from the Snowy
Mountains Highway (or, for those of an active disposition,
at the end of the Kiandra Walk) is a small park. The story
attached to this area is typical of the luck involved on a
gold field. 'Early in the gold rush some new chums arrived
at the field. Asking other miners about good spots to try
they were jokingly directed to a most unlikely location.
Their tunnels soon struck rich deposits (so much for
expertise on the goldfields) and New Chum Hill became the
site of intensive mining. The gold had been deposited in a
thick clay matrix by an ancient stream and was best removed
by sluicing. To provide water for this operation several
groups of miners built a network of races from Three Mile
Dam.
'A strong jet of water was used to undermine the hillside
and wash the loose soil and gravel into tail races up to 500
metres long. Stones paving these races trapped the gold
bearing sediments. A removable bottom on the race allowed
this material to be collected easily and processed. This
area of the goldfields kept operating until the 1890s. At
one time, during a period of only 12 weeks, they extracted
£15 000 worth of gold.'
Mt Selwyn Snowfields
7 km from Kiandra, off the road to Cabramurra, are the Mt
Selwyn Snowfields, reaching a peak elevation of 1614 metres.
Alpine and cross-country skiing, snow-showing, snowboarding,
tobogganing (with Australia's only tobogan tow) and
snow-tubing are available in winter. Accommodation and ski
packages are available. There are 45 km of ski trails
ranging from 2.5 to 15 km and there is a snow sports school.
The fields cover 45 hectares and there are 12 lifts with
a capacity of 9,500 per hour which operate from 8.30 a.m. to
4.30 p.m. The fields are divided into 40%designated
'easiest,' 48% 'more difficult,' and 12% 'most difficult.'
An artificial snowmaking system covers 80% of the terrain.
There is day parking, ski and clothing hire, catering, a
children's centre, a ski patrol, a retail shop, ticket
sales, a public phone, toilets and information. For further
data, snow reports etc, see Selwynsnow.com.au.
Three Mile Dam
Three Mile Dam, located a few kilometres along the
Cabramurra Road and just past the turnoff to Mount Selwyn,
was built by the Chinese in 1882 to provide water for the
sluicing operations at New Chum Hill. There is a walk (it is
clearly marked on a map a few hundred metres off the road
past the dam) which includes the old races and shows clearly
how the water flowed from the dam to the goldfields.
Historic Kiandra, published by the Cooma Monaro
Historical Society in 1959 and still available, is an
outstanding account of the history of the area. It includes
lots of interesting contemporary accounts of Kiandra in its
brief heyday.
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Kiandra