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| Historic buildings in
Swan Street |
Morpeth
Charming and historic town on the banks of the Hunter
River
Morpeth is an historic inland river port with a bucolic feel
on the banks of the Hunter River 168 km north of Sydney, 37
km north-west of Newcastle and just 5 km north-east of
Maitland. With its beautiful riverside setting, the
genuinely historic feel which emerges from the mellowed
stonework of its many old buildings, the modest and
eminently walkable size of the town and the willows which
line the river bank it is becoming popular with travellers.
The main street, with its profusion of arts and crafts,
antique and curio shops housed in historic buildings, is
very much geared towards tourism.
Once covered in dense rainforest the Morpeth area was
probably occupied by the Gringgai clan of the Wanaruah
indigeous peoples who called it 'Illalaung'. It is known
that the Wanaruah had trade and ceremonial links with the
Kamilaroi people. They favoured goannas as a food source,
covering larger animals in hot ashes and stuffing them with
grass. They also adopted burning off practices as the new
shoots which emerged after fire attracted kangaroos which
they surrounded and killed with clubs and spears (du-rane)
barbed with sharp stones.
The first Europeans in the area were the party of Lt Col.
Paterson who undertook an exploration of the Hunter River in
1801. Paterson named the locality Green Hills.
The land here was granted in 1821 to Lt Edward Close, a
veteran of the Napoleonic Wars, as a reward for service as
Engineer of Public Works at Newcastle. He built an
impressive homestead, Closebourne House (still standing),
around 1826 which became the residence of the various
Bishops of Newcastle from 1848 to 1912.
A bridge over Wallis Creek was erected in 1827
facilitating trade with the township of Wallis Plains (now
Maitland) which, although 40 km away by river, was just 5 km
by road.
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| The old bridge across the
Hunter River |
The years from 1827-1830 saw Green Hills developing as a
river port. However, the locality really took off after the
arrival, in 1831, of the first paddlesteamer (the Sophia
Jane). It was soon a regular, along with the William IV, the
first Australian-made, ocean-going paddlesteamer. In 1832
the first proper wharf was erected and the first two inns
were licensed. A proper road to Maitland was built by
convict labour in 1833.
Close subdivided the land with the first batch of
allotments sold in 1834. A private town was established
which, at this time, took the name Morpeth which was
originally the name of a town near Newcastle in England.
Morpeth became the major port of the Hunter Valley and
surrounding districts between 1832 and 1890 with a regular
steamer service operating to Maitland, up to Paterson and
down to Newcastle. An important trade, cultural, commercial
and religious centre, much of the Hunter Valley's produce
passed through its wharves en route to Newcastle and Sydney
while most persons and goods headed from those centres into
the valley and beyond also set foot on its wharves.
Lt Close set up the first school in 1836, the year both
Anglican and Catholic services commenced. A Catholic Church
was built in 1836 and the foundation stone of St James'
Church was laid in 1837. The first post office opened in
1838, a steam mill was built in 1840 and a soap works in
1844. In the 1840s Caleb Soul, of Soul-Pattison
pharmaceuticals, manufactured talcum powder and William
Arnott, later of Arnott's biscuits, had a bakery here. Their
businesses were both located on the river side of Swan St,
between Tank and Northumberland Sts. The first national
school opened in 1862, the year the population peaked at
1830. There were ten hotels in the town when it became a
municipality in 1866.
However, Newcastle had begun to grow, and the Great
Northern Railway, which reached Maitland in 1857, initially
bypassed Morpeth. Although the extension of the railway to
the outskirts of town in 1864 and to the wharves in 1870 the
river had begun to silt up. The completion of the rail link
between Newcastle and Sydney in 1889 sealed the fate of the
river trade and the fortunes of Morpeth.
Morpeth was formally amalgamated into the City of
Maitland in 1969. It re-emerged in the late 1980s as a
tourist attraction with the opening of the gift shops.
Things to see:
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Visitor Information and Town Tours
Morpeth is an historic town which has been classified by the
National Trust. It has many historic sites and buildings of
interest, particularly on Swan St (the main road) which even
retains its old stone guttering. A glossy heritage walk
booklet is available for $2 from the Visitors' Centre in
Maitland, located in Ministers Park, cnr High St and Les
Darcy Drive (the New England Hwy), tel: (02) 4933 2611.
However a number of local shops also sell the booklet.
Historical walks are conducted on a daily basis, if numbers
are sufficient, at 2 pm from 144 Swan St, tel: (02) 4934
5660.
Fig Tree Hill
The Morpeth Road, which heads in a north-easterly direction
from East Maitland to Morpeth, leads past a roadside stop to
the left as you approach the town. From this vantage point,
known as Fig Tree Hill, there is a good perspective
northwards over the river flats adjacent the Hunter with the
land rising in the distance to the residential area of
Largs. Further afield, beyond the Hunter, is the Paterson
River to the north with the Barrington Mountains in the
distance. A number of local buildings were constructed of
sandstone quarried by convicts from the land below the
lookout.
Closebourne House
Opposite is the driveway to Closebourne Conference Centre
which leads past Closebourne House. There is a good view of
its facade and the front garden. This is private property so
visitors are asked to respect the privacy of guests.
This huge and enormously impressive sandstone colonial
Georgian mansion was built in 1826, the second residence of
town founder Lt Close. Both house and landscape have
recently been restored. It features flagged verandahs on
three sides, a fanlight over the front door and cedar
joinery. It is one of the oldest surviving buildings in
Australia and is particularly valuable for its quality and
the retention of its original structure and setting. Close
sold it to Bishop Tyrrell, the Anglican Bishop of Newcastle,
in 1848 whence it served as an episcopal residence known as
Bishopscourt until 1912. It subsequently became a boys' home
and grammar school.
Morpeth House
Close built another mansion (completed 1852) known as
Morpeth House which is behind Closebourne and slightly back
in the direction of East Maitland. Also of sandstone and
well-preserved, it is not quite so grandiose. A symmetrical
design with opposing wings it has a hipped roof, shuttered
windows and timber verandah posts.
Queens Wharf and Tank Street
Tank Street heads up the hill to the right of the main
street and Queens Wharf Road on the left leads down to the
original wharf area where passengers and goods (including
coal) boarded steamers bound for Paterson, Maitland,
Newcastle and Sydney. A punt service once operated across
the river to Phoenix Park. Tank Street was named after the
Bishop's tank which was used to water the gardens of
Closebourne House.
Campbells Store and the Surgeons Cottage
Start at the corner of Tank St and Swan St. The large
symmetrical gabled building on the corner, to the right, is
the old Campbells Store, built of locally-quarried sandstone
and brick (c.1850) with flagged sandstone paving and timber
posts supporting an awning. Once noted for its haberdashery
it drew clientele from far afield. Like many of the old
buildings in Swan St it now sells gifts and curios.
There are large blow-ups of interesting historic
photographs with explanatory text adorning the walls. Some
of the photographs reveal features of the town no longer in
existence, such as Anlaby's Inn, one of the original hotels,
which once stood opposite. Its bricks were used for
restoration work on Morpeth House.
Next door to the store is the Surgeons Cottage, a smaller
sandstone building with hipped roof, decorative cast-iron
columns and a sandstone verandah built for a Dr Bennett in
1846 or 1858 depending on which source you credit.
Slab Cottage
Just around the corner in Green Street is an old slab
cottage dating back to the 1820s which has been restored and
relocated to this site. Now housing Morpeth Pottery it was
built by Pierce Cantwell who initially carted the sandstone
from Fig Tree Hill into town. He later owned the Royal Hotel
which is still standing.
Terrace Houses
Returning to the excursion down Swan St there are a series
of terrace houses on the right (153-163) built c.1850.
Number 155 now houses 'Timpotoo' which sells pottery,
woodwork, leatherwork, toys and other gifts. At 157 is
Melange of Morpeth.
CBC Bank
Just beyond the terraces is the rather elaborate CBC Bank
building (1889). Designed by the Mansfield brothers it has a
particularly impressive interior, featuring Italian
fireplaces, porcelain servants' bells, red cedar woodwork, a
fine staircase, quality panelling and original bank fittings
including a huge cedar counter, ledger desk and cupboard.
Other elements are the old vault, an underground well, a
roof tank installed to improve water pressure and, at the
rear of the building, the sandstock coach house, stables and
loft. The exterior has a grandiose arched entranceway and
arched windows. It is currently undergoing painstaking
restoration and will reopen as a guesthouse.
Bronte House and Gift Shops
Just beyond it, at 147 Swan Street, is Bronte House, dating
from 1860, now available as self-contained accommodation,
tel: (02) 4930 5114. At no.139 is House on Hunter, an
antiques and art shop which was originally the Central Inn
(c.1850).
Other local gift shops on Swan St which haven't been
mentioned are Carole's Crystal Cave (175), Grandma's
Featherbed and Teddy Bears Downstairs (162), Fleurs (131),
Hocus Pocus (129) and Port of Morpeth Nautical Gifts (119).
Days and hours of opening vary.
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| Old Morpeth Courthouse
Museum |
Corner of Swan St and Northumberland St
The CBC Bank initially set up shop in Taylor's Bonded
Stores, built in 1850. This particularly impressive
sandstone building is situated opposite the Classical
Revival courthouse which was completed in 1862. The latter
features round-headed windows, channelled stone, pilasters,
architrave and pediment. It now serves as a local history
museum, open Tuesday to Friday from 10.00 a.m. - 4.00 p.m.
and Sundays from 1.00 p.m. - 4.00 p.m., tel: (02) 4934 4301.
Adjacent Taylor's is the bridge over the Hunter which was
completed in 1898. Illalong Park is an attractive little
garden area nearby on Swan St with seats overlooking the
river.
Swan Street East - The Railway Station
Further down Swan St, just past the post office (1861-66),
to the right, is The Royal Hotel. Although not an especially
attractive building, the hitching posts out the front, to
which owners tied their waiting horses, are a reminder that
this is one of the town's earliest inns.
On the other side of the road is the old railway station,
built in 1889. It is a symmetrical design with, on either
side, a room projecting from the main body, ending in a bay
window beneath a gable topped by a finial. These two wings
are linked by a verandah with columns.
The line from East Maitland opened in 1864, when the
terminus was under Fig Tree Hill. It was gradually extended
to the various wharves along the river. The line closed in
1953 after flood damage although the postwar development of
the road system had rendered it largely obsolete.
J.G. White Joinery
Duck up Robert Street. A few doors along to the right is the
Morpeth Trading Post, an enormous odds-and-sods warehouse
ideal for casual browsing. The building was originally the
J.G. White Joinery which operated continuously from
1838-1968, making it the oldest surviving joinery works
building and the longest-running family business in
Australia.
A notice within claims that the well inside the building
bores through solid rock to a depth of 23 m where it taps
into a natural spring which is, miraculously, still running.
It is asserted that it was the town's first water supply,
being dug around 1818, presumably by one of the earliest
farmers who were in the district by 1814. It served the
joinery for many years and was rediscovered during
restoration in the 1980s.
Marlborough House
Returning to Swan St. To the right, at number 75, is
Marlborough House which was built by James Taylor of the
aforementioned Bonded Stores in 1846. Classical columns rest
on a flagged stone verandah. The house is somewhat obscured
by the iron and brick fencing and the lush, well-established
garden which also contains one of the town's old street
lamps, made in the United States.
Police Station
Turn right up George St and continue on to the intersection
with High St. To the right is Morpeth Police Station (1879),
a symmetrical and finely detailed brick building designed by
James Barnet with arcaded verandahs, quoins, hipped roof,
and arched windows with timber tracery.
Kia-Ora and Morpeth Common
Turn left down High St to the T-intersection with Edward St.
The impressive house on the large corner block with picket
fencing is Kia-Ora Villa, built for Mayor Hobden in 1879 and
later owned by Joe White of J.G. White Joinery. The governor
of the colony and other VIPs are known to have stayed here
whilst in Morpeth. The gardens are beautiful. The twin
gables at the front are stylishly rendered with finely
carved timber bargeboards and a graceful finial. The
bullnose verandah sports decorative iron columns and ornate
cast-iron lacework. The pressed metal ceilings were
apparently an early trial model by Wunderlich.
Turn right into Edward St and to the left is Morpeth
Common and Wildfowl Reserve, granted to the village by Lt
Close in the manner of the English village common. It is now
a picnic area with childrens' play facilities, sheltered
tables and barbecues.
Catholic Group
Continue along Edward St then turn right up James St. When
you come to Duke St turn right and to your immediate left is
St Bede's, built in 1870 to replace the original wooden
church (1836). St Bede's became the parish school when the
next church opened and it is now the Catholic Hall.
Continue along James St. To the immediate left is the
residence known as 'Rosemor' built in 1885 as the Catholic
presbytery. At the corner of James and George Sts is one of
the town's most impressive buildings - the large and complex
design of the Church of the Immaculate Conception, built in
1897 with an arched lancet motif. The old building between
the two churches was formerly a convent with the old cells
still intact upstairs and the section facing the new church
serving as the convent's chapel.
High Street (and Princess Street)
Turn into George St and follow it for two blocks turning
left into High St. On the right-hand side is Morpeth Public
School, built in 1868. The original brick building is still
in use. It is painted a light green with multipaned windows.
Opposite is the two-storey Methodist parsonage which
dates from the 1840s with intricate cast-iron lacework,
hipped roof, arched doorway and shuttered, multipaned
windows.
Continue along High St and turn left into Robert St and
then right into Princess St where a number of the cottages
date back to the mid-19th century (note those at numbers 60,
75, 89 and 99).
Turn right at Northumberland St then right, back into
High St. Almost immediately to the left, at no. 110 is the
old School of Arts building with typically massive pillars
supporting the architrave and pediment . It dates from 1862
with a library, reading room, and a hall and stage for
cultural activities. The Morpeth council, formed in 1865,
met here for the first time the following year. It is now
the venue of the Morpeth mini-market held on the first
Sunday of each month.
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| St James Anglican Church
(1840) |
Anglican Group
At the top of High St is the Tank St T-intersection. To the
right is St James Parish Hall, built in 1845 and once used
as a schoolhouse. To the left is St James Anglican Church.
The rectory dates from 1843.
The church is said to represent the fulfilment of a vow
made by Edward Close at the Battle of Albuera in 1811,
during the Peninsular War, that he would build a house of
worship if his life were spared. The foundation stone was
laid in 1837 and the initial design was presumably Close's.
It was consecrated in 1840. Only the tower remains of the
original building. There is a memorial window to Close in
the eastern wing, commissioned and funded in 1872 by the
community in recognition of his services and largesse.
Noted architect Edmund Blacket was employed in 1862 to
extend the east end by the addition of a chancel and
sanctuary. He inserted new cedar pews which still remain and
he designed both a distinguished font and a stone pulpit.
The latter, beautifully carved by D. Yeates of Maitland, is
an exact replica of a pulpit built in 1280 for a Cistercian
Abbey which had since become Beaulieu Parish Church where
Bishop Tyrrell, who funded the extensions, had been rector.
In 1874 J. Horbury Hunt, colonial Australia's most
original and interesting architect, was commissioned to
rebuild the nave after a fire. Under instructions to alter
the character of the building as little as possible he
subordinated his personal creativity. His major contribution
is a fine and beautifully crafted hammerbeam roof. Thus the
tower was designed by Close, the chancel by Blacket and the
nave by Hunt. And yet the building has a unifed feel. The
organ inside was built in 1877.
Edward Close and John Howe, the leader of the first
overland expedition into the Hunter (from Windsor to the
Singleton area), are buried in the cemetery.
Standing outside the entryway of the church looking
across Tank St a series of brush box trees planted in two
rows in the early 1890s form a walkway which connects the
church to Closebourne House , then the episcopal residence.
Berry Park House and Berry House
Berry Park House lies 3.4 km along Duckenfield Rd. It is a
gracious homestead built in 1837 with a hipped roof and
shady verandah erected by tradesmen from England who were
recommended by the family.
John Eales obtained a grant of 2100 acres in this area in
1823. He successfully grew wheat and built some of the
colony's first silos for storage. He raised sheep, bred
racehorses (his son developed a prosperous stud), organised
the first race meeting in the Hunter Valley in 1833, owned
some of the colony's finest racehorses and built a private
racecourse. Another 900 m (the second house on the left
after the Duckenfield Rd sign) brings you to Berry House, a
Georgian mansion built by Eales in 1857 with servants'
quarters and a stone rubble barn. It is now open as a
bed-and-breakfast, tel: (02) 4930 5144.
Tours and Explorations
There are numerous tour operators who offer trips to various
types of attractions in various different areas aboard
various modes of transport.
Hunter Action Tours offer outdoor camping and walking
tours, contact (02) 4976 1416 or (019) 459 473. Hunter
Valley Day Tours offer a range of guided 4WD tours of the
Hunter Valley complete with commentary. They pick up clients
from anywhere. Bookings are necessary, contact (02) 4938
5031. Walking tours of the Hunter are conducted by
Federation Track Walkers, contact (02) 9484 9701. Ron's
Outback Safaris have a mini-coach service, tel: (02) 4933
2611 or, after hours, (02) 4933 2538. Jump Up Creek Vineyard
Tours offer daily mini coach tours of lower Hunter vineyards
They will pick you up and return you to your accommodation
in Singleton, Maitland, Morpeth, Cessnock, Pokolbin and
Wollombi,
Broadwalk
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Broadwalk Business
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Sale, Hotels for sale,Commercial & Industrial Properties for Sale.
Phone:
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enquiries@broadwalkbusinessbrokers.com.au
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Disclaimer
We advise prospective purchasers that we take no
responsibility for the accuracy of any information in the business
provided by vendors or their professional advisers and that they should
make their own enquiries as to the accuracy of this information,
including obtaining independent legal and/or accounting advice
Morpeth
