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Bridge across the Bogan
River |
Nyngan (and Canonba)
Pleasant country town and service centre on the Bogan
River
Nyngan is a country town of some 2500 people, situated by
the Bogan River on the eastern edge of the Great Outback. It
is located on the Mitchell Highway between Narromine and
Bourke, 583 km north-west of Sydney and 173 metres above
sea-level. The Barrier Highway also starts at Nyngan,
heading west to Cobar. Wool, wheat and cattle are the
primary local produce in what is a very productive pastoral
and agricultural shire.
The district was originally inhabited by the Ngiyambaa
Aborigines. Thomas Mitchell explored the Bogan River in
1835, camping on the future townsite. He recorded the local
Aboriginal word 'nyingan', said to mean 'long pond of
water', though other meanings have been put forward.
Squatters had settled in Mitchell's wake before he had even
begun the return journey.
The acting botanist with the expedition was Richard
Cunningham, the younger brother of noted explorer Allan
Cunningham. He was killed by Aborigines 84 km south-east of
Nyngan when he got lost after straying from the main party
(a cairn marks the spot, near the locality of Tabratong).
Apparently Cunningham approached the Aborigines
gesticulating that he was hungry. They fed him and he made
camp with them but he aroused suspicions in the course of
the night when he arose several times so they clubbed him to
death while he slept. A cairn has been erected to mark the
spot. The police investigated and arrested three men who
readily confessed. Two later escaped and a third was taken
to Sydney, his fate unknown.
This was not an isolated incident. Relationships with
Aborigines on the lower Bogan River were characterised by
conflict and, as a result, the government cancelled all
pastoral licenses beyond the Derribong run in 1845.
It is said that a massacre occurred in the area in 1842.
During a prolonged drought some stockmen employed by William
Lee set off from a station 16 km north of Peak Hill in
search of water with 1200 cattle in tow. They came across a
large waterhole, to the north of present-day Nyngan, where a
large number of Aborigines were camped. The whites informed
the Aborigines that only those who wished to work could stay
and the rest must leave. Not surprisingly, this caused
considerable ill-feeling. When one Aborigine shook his fist
at the stockmen he was strung up by the wrists and whipped.
One of the white men was concerned at the signs of growing
resentment and tried to convince the others to leave but,
failing in his endeavours, he departed on his own. He looked
back later in the day and noted birds of prey hovering over
the distant site. He returned and found five badly mutilated
bodies and one survivor with severe wounds.
When the deaths were reported a police troop was sent to
inflict punishment. It is said three were killed and three
arrested but it is believed that hundreds more Aborigines
were subsequently killed. Certainly when Thomas Mitchell
revisited the area in 1845 he was surprised by the absence
of Aborigines when he had estimated a thousand to live along
the river during his 1835 expedition. When word of the
massacres reached Governor Gipps he cancelled William Lee's
squatting license.
The small town of Canonba was the first local settlement
of any duration. It was established to the west of the Bogan
and 28 km north-west of today's Nyngan. Cobb & Co made it a
coach stop on the route north-west to Bourke and to the
properties of the far west. Bushranger Charles Rutherford
was shot by the owner of the Canonba Inn in 1867 while
bailing up the establishment.
Nyngan was gazetted as a reserve for water in 1865 but a
townsite was not reserved until 1880. It was surveyed in
1882 when the Dubbo-Bourke railway was under construction.
The track arrived in Nyngan the following year, signalling
the end of Canonba's existence. Symbolically enough, a
number of houses from the older settlement were dismantled
and re-erected at Nyngan in 1883.
By this time the initial emphasis on cattle had been
balanced by the grazing of merino sheep for their wool.
Wheat-growing also began in the 1880s although unreliable
rainfall has always been a problem, as the Bogan only flows
after rain. The town received a secure water supply in 1942
when water was relayed along a 62-km canal from the
Macquarie River.
Nyngan became a municipality in 1891. A meatworks
developed on the outskirts of town in the 1890s for the
boiling down of sheep and an experimental farm was
established in 1910 to further wheat cultivation.
Nyngan, little known in the east, entered the national
psyche in 1990 when it was deluged with the worst floods of
the century. The townspeople laid 260 000 sandbags on top of
the established levee but the waters inundated the entire
town, causing $50 million worth of damage and necessitating
the airlift by helicopter of 2000 citizens, virtually the
entire population. A national relief fund was established to
help the town recover.
Today Nyngan's role as a rail centre has terminated with
the cancellation of the service to Bourke and it is now a
service centre to the surrounding district. The Agricultural
Show is held in May.
Things to see:
Tourist Information
Burn's Video and Gift Shop is the local information centre.
It is located at 105 Pangee St, between Tabratong and
Dandaloo Sts, tel: (02) 6832 1155.
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Nyngan Council Chambers
and Town Hall |
Historic Buildings
Most of the town's heritage buildings are located in Cobar
and Bogan Sts. The town hall (1897), courthouse and post
office (1880) are in the former, between Terangion St and
Tabratong St. On opposite corners of the Bogan and Terangion
St intersection are the Anglican and Catholic Churches.
Bogan St also has a number of private homes from the 1890s.
Barrett's Hotel, in Nymagee St, was built in 1865, then
rebuilt after a fire, in 1884. A blacksmith's and stables
was once located to its rear. The Heritage Coffee Shop is
located in a building which was once the Nyngan Hotel
(1883), on Nymagee St.
Heritage Centre
The old railway station in Pangee St, near the Dandaloo St
intersection, has been restored and converted into an
historical museum. It includes a display relating to the
1990 flood and the old telephone exchange, amongst other
items relating to local history.
Vanges Park
Adjacent the railway station in Pangee St is a helicopter, a
gift from the Australian Government to the people of Nyngan
to commemorate the occasion in April 1990 when 2000 people,
nearly the entire population, were evacuated, largely by
helicopter, due to the breaching of the levee by record
floodwaters.
Blue Arrow Tour
The Blue Arrow Tour (22.6 km) starts at the Heritage Cottage
and is guided by signposts featuring a blue arrow on a white
background. There is an accompanying booklet available from
the information centre. It offers a comprehensive overview
of the major places of interest around the town.
Memorial Sculpture
The Pioneer Memorial sculpture of a drover, his dog and a
mob of sheep is located at the corner of Pangee and Moonagee
Sts.
Rotary Park
Rotary Park, on the western bank of the Bogan River,
adjacent the Mitchell Highway, is a pleasant rest area with
a miniature rainforest.
$$HED
The Nyngan Coach Works
Visitors can see Don Burns building and restoring Cobb &
Co coaches and Royal Mail vehicles, utilising 19th-century
methods and technologies. There is a coach display area, a
blacksmith's shop, an old police lock-up, a range of
original parts for horse-drawn vehicles, and an old
pioneer's cottage. It is located in a Council Depot and
Workshop on the corner of Moonagee and Nymagee Sts.
Cobb & Co Heritage Trail
The historic inland coaching company, Cobb & Co, celebrates
the 150th anniversary of its first journey in 2004 (and the
80th anniversary of its last, owing to the emergence of
motorised transport). The trailblazing company's
contribution to Australia's development is celebrated with
the establishment of a heritage trail which explores the
terrain covered on one of its old routes: between Bathurst
and Bourke.
Cobb & Co's origins lay in the growing human traffic
prompted by the goldrushes of the early 1850s. As the
Heritage Trail website states: 'The company was enormously
successful and had branches or franchises throughout much of
Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Japan. At its peak,
Cobb & Co operated along a network of tracks that extended
further than those of any other coach system in the world
its coaches travelled 28,000 miles (44,800km) per week and
6000 (out of their 30,000) horses were harnessed every day.
Cobb & Co created a web of tracks from Normanton on the Gulf
of Carpentaria and Port Douglas on the Coral Sea down to the
furthest reaches of Victoria and South Australia in all, a
continuous line of 2000 miles (3200km) of track over eastern
Australia from south to north, with a total of 7000 miles
(11,200km) of regular routes' (see www.cobbandco.net.au).
Cobb & Co sites include the Nyngan Coach Works, the
Heritage Coffee Shop (which has items from the coaching
days), the post office, the Royal Hotel (on the riverbank,
at the corner of Cobar and Nyngan Sts), Barrett's Hotel (in
Nymagee St) and the Nyngan Museum. Also in the district are
the ghost town of Canonba (once a thriving Cobb and Co coach
terminal), the Buckiinguy property (once owned by Cobb & Co
partner William Franklin Whitney, whose child is buried on
the property), Duck Creek Bridge (the first bridge built
west of Dubbo), built especially to facilitate Cobb & Co
traffic, Larsen's Pub, the ruins of the Monkey and Willeroon
change stations, and remnants of a zig-zag fence, especialy
designed to allow Cobb & Co coaches to pass through
stockyards without opening and closing gates.
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Nyngan