The countryside around The Oaks

 

The Oaks (including Oakdale, Mt Hunter, Glenmore, Nattai, the Burragorang Valley and Warragamba)
Township on the south western edge of the Sydney Basin
The Oaks is located 76 km south-west of Sydney via the Hume Highway, 13 km west of Camden and 290 m above sea-level. Despite a long-standing economic dependence upon coal mining and despite the urban development inspired by its proximity to Sydney, The Oaks (population: 2335) has essentially remained an attractive semi-rural district.

The area was inhabited by the Tharawal Aborigines prior to colonisation. However, owing to fiercely contested wars between the Tharawal and the Europeans, particularly between 1812 and 1816 (culminating in a massacre at Cataract Gorge), and the devastating introduction of European diseases, the Gundungorra people moved into the area around The Oaks. Members of both tribes subsequently worked for the Europeans into the 1920s when they were placed on reserves and their children forcibly removed until the practice ceased in the 1960s.

Much of the initial European focus on this area related to the fact that seven of the eight cows on the Government Farm at Farm Cove had strayed just four months after the First Fleet's arrival. They were not seen again until 1795 and that was on the western side of the Nepean. Confirmation of the sighting led to an expedition later that year which included Governor Hunter and explorer George Bass. They found the herd increased to over 40 grazing in what was named 'Cow Pasture Plains'. A succession of governors sought to protect the herd from exploitation or molestation as an investment in the colony's future.

In an attempt to exert control over what had become several thousand cattle Governor Macquarie established three cattle stations on the Cowpastures in 1813. One was located on the future site of The Oaks. Many of the cattle were later moved to Bathurst. Some were domesticated, others were shot for their hides. As the area was settled and the value of cattle declined the remainder were dispersed and destroyed, though large numbers were unaccounted for, presumably killed by settlers. The stations were closed in 1826.

 

Countryside around The Oaks

 

The Oaks was called simply "Oaks" until 1895. The name was provided by botanist George Caley who visited the area between 1802 and 1804 noting that the rose she-oak and river oak were the dominant trees.

The district was surveyed between 1822 and 1827 as land grants were extended to the area. The first was issued in 1823 to John Wild who had been in charge of the cattle station at Cawdor. He established a farm on the 'Vanderville' estate and built a homestead in the late 1820s with the help of Aboriginal and convict labour. Sheep, cattle and pigs were raised, wheat and tobacco farmed, and a dairy established. The estate was located south of The Oaks (along Montpelier Drive) though nothing remains today.

Wild and another early settler named Major Russell built St Matthew's Church for the worship of their families and servants in 1838 and it is still stands.

Pastoralists from Camden, Campbelltown and The Oaks began running their cattle in the Burragorang Valley, explored by Francis Barrallier in 1802-03 when Governor King asked him to find a way through the Blue Mountains. The area was surveyed in 1828.

When convict transportation ended in 1840 and convict servants received their tickets-of-leave, labour shortages proved a problem and so free settlers with large holdings sold or let portions of their land to emancipists.

The economic focus shifted from mixed farming to wheat from the 1840s and a wheat mill was established. The 1850s were a period of economic expansion for the area.

John Wild's daughter-in-law, Emmeline, released 100 acres of the family estate in 1858 for the establishment of the private village of Vanderville on the banks of Werriberri Creek (a Tharawal name for the song of the willie wagtail). At the time the creek was also known as Monkey Creek. It is thought that this may indicate the presence of koalas in the area at the time (known to the settlers as monkeys).

Flooding caused the settlement to move to higher ground. When a post office was opened later in 1858 the village was officially recognised as The Oaks. Two years later there were eight residences, as well as an inn, a wine saloon and two blacksmith's. The Oaks Hotel was in operation by 1863. The majority of the area was Roman Catholic and a Catholic church opened in 1865. St Luke's became the principal centre of Anglican worship when it was built in 1892.

Wheat rust devastated the wheat industry at the outset of the 1860s. As a result attention was diverted to market gardening, dairying, hay production and the building of hay presses. Oranges and milk became staple products.

The discovery of silver at Yerranderie drew attention to the area in 1890, helping to open it up to further settlement.

The mining of iron ore began in 1891 in the area between The Oaks and Picton although agriculture remained the backbone of the district with The Oaks becoming a grazing centre. After economic growth in the 1920s the depression hit the community hard and people began to move away.

Coal mining began in the Burragorang Valley (at Nattai) on a small scale in the 1930s but it soon became the principal economic activity and, after World War II, led to a resurgence of the township although massive retrenchments occurred in the early 1980s. This prosperity precipitated subdivision in the 1960s.

Massive retrenchments from the local mines occurred in the early 1980s. Fruit-growing is also of importance to the local economy.

Things to see:  

Wollondilly Heritage Centre
The Wollondilly Heritage Centre on Edward Street is a community history centre and museum complex situated on landscaped grounds. It includes a one teacher bush schoolroom and timber and iron furnished slab cottage. A program of changing displays features the stories of the working people of Wollondilly including the indigenous people. Machinery relates to the timber industry, orcharding, poultry and farming in the area. It has disabled access, a community room, a sheltered gas barbecue and shady verandahs and Museum Shop with local history publications, local craft and children's toys. A special 'Hands-On-History" program for children at primary schools is available for $4 per child. The Centre is open every weekend and Public Holiday from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. and during the week by phoning 46571796.

 

St Lukes Anglican Church
When you make the turn into Merlin St, W.S. Williams Park is to your right. If you return along Merlin St and cross over Burragorang Rd, then, to your right, you will see St Luke's Anglican Church, built in 1892, again on land donated by Emmeline Wild.

 

Church of St Aloysius
At the end of the street is the Roman Catholic presbytery (built 1905-06 and used as a boarding school for girls until 1964 when the parish of The Oaks was formed), the adjacent priest's house (used as such when the presbytery was a girls' school), the Church of St Aloysius (built in 1865 on land donated by Emmeline Wild) and the old schoolhouse, which was the first denominational school in the district when it opened in 1864. It served as the town's first public school from 1880-1902 and is now the church hall.

 

The Oaks Hotel
Return to Burragorang Rd and continue westwards. The next crossroad is John St, named after John Wild. Turn left and, to the left, just past the primary school is Barrallier Park, which has barbecue facilities. Adjacent is The Oaks Hotel. The original building (dating from 1863) operated as a sanatorium for patients recovering from tuberculosis as the high altitude was considered beneficial. It burned down in 1940 when the current structure was erected. At the other end of John St is a brick and timber building which was originally the Noakes General Store (now a real estate agency).

 

 

St Matthew's Anglican Church

 

St Matthews Anglican Church
St Matthew's Anglican Church is a very simple and small slab-walled parish church erected in 1838 of timber felled by convicts. It is probably the oldest church of its type remaining in Australia and one of the oldest churches still in use in NSW. Originally L-shaped it was renovated in the 1920s. The churchyard contains the graves of early settlers; among them Suzanah Mileham, a descendant of Captain Cook who died in 1855, and Henry Kable Jr, the son of parents who arrived as convicts in the First Fleet and who were one of the first three white couples to be married in Australia. The church can be found at the crest of a hill out of town on Old Oaks Rd (the heritage centre can tell you how to get there and will supply you with a small map). To see the interior contact St Luke's Church in town, tel: (02) 4657 1163.

 

Other Attractions
From the church it is possible to see another of the district's oldest buildings, the sandstone Hermitage homestead dating back to 1840-41. It has been restored but is not open to the public.

The Oaks Airport on Burragorang Rd is an ultralight aviation centre with training flights on weekends, tel: 015-26 3122. The airport was constructed in World War II to train airforce personnel.

 

 

Countryside opposite St Matthew's Anglican Church

 

Glenmore
The tiny village of Glenmore (population: 90) is located 3 km north-east of The Oaks. Ex-convict Edward Moore was the first European settler, purchasing 2000 acres in 1854. He divided his estate between his three sons and their sandstone homesteads still survive. One of them, Robert, married a daughter of 'Granny' McKillegit, a well-respected local midwife from Glenmore in Ireland, which is how the settlement received its name. Their descendants still live in the district.

Methodist services began at Glenmore in 1856 and a church was erected in 1860. It was used as a school until 1869. Still standing it is now Glenmore Uniting Church. Edward Moore's homestead Glenmore House is being developed as a tourist facility. A few other early buildings relating to his property also remain.

 

Mount Hunter
3 km east of Glenmore is Mt Hunter (population: 649). Governor Macquarie's second expedition to the Cowpastures in 1796 ventured as far west as Mt Hunter, which they climbed in order to gain a perspective on the district. A station was established there as early as 1813 and a slab Methodist chapel was built in 1858. It was replaced by a more substantial building in 1860. A national school opened at Mt Hunter in 1858. Today there is a Fragrant Herb Garden at 145 Calf Farm Rd situated in pleasant surroundings. Admission is free and it is open Tuesday to Sunday. Mt Hunter Winery at 135 Calf Farm Rd is open for wine tasting by prior arrangement, tel: 1800 022 861.

 

Oakdale
Oakdale (7 km west of The Oaks) was settled in the 1860s by timber-getters. What is now Barkers Lodge Rd (heading south from Oakdale to Picton) was surveyed in 1862 in order to transport produce to the railhead at Picton and timber to the sawmill at Thirlmere. The township was surveyed for settlement in 1863 with the local economy revolving around timber and orchards (mostly apples but later expanding to the production of other fruits and vegetables). A sawmill was built and a slab hut was erected by local parents as a schoolhouse in 1870. It was replaced by a government school in 1885, which stood on the corner of Barkers Lodge Rd opposite the present school.

Today Oakdale is a fruit-growing and mining town of some 1500 people. Willis Park, just off the main road (Burragorang Rd) has picnic, barbecue and toilet facilities. At 65 Halliday Rd is Pickaberry Farm where groups can pick their own raspberries from February to April by prior arrangement, tel: (02) 4659 6181.

 

Belimbla Park
Between The Oaks and Oakdale is the small village of Belimbla Park (population: 424), named after a particular type of eucalyptus, only found at Belimbla Creek in Tumut. The plantation was established in the 1940s but closed the following decade.

 

Burragorang Valley
Burragorang Rd, which runs from The Oaks to the Burragorang Valley, was surveyed in 1827 and was merely a basic bullock-dray track until the traffic generated by the silver mines, which appeared in the 1890s, required an improved surface.

Exploration of the Burragorang Valley had commenced in 1802. It later became a very popular location for tourists until the completion of the Warragamba Dam in the late 1950s flooded the valley and the residents were moved on to neighbouring towns. Built to supply the growing population of Sydney (which had experienced acute water shortages during the drought of 1934-42) it is said to be the largest dam in the Southern Hemisphere. Lake Burragorang was created by the waters of the Cox, Nattai and Wollondilly rivers and covers 7500 ha.

While in the area you may wish to take in the view from Burragorang Lookout over the valley, the lake and Nattai State Recreation Area where bushwalking and bush camping can be enjoyed. The lookout is located off Burragorang Rd at Nattai, 16 km west of The Oaks. There are fireplaces, picnic areas, a playground and a kiosk which is open on weekends.

 

Warragamba Dam
If you wish to see Warragamba Dam itself drive 23 km north of The Oaks to the quiet village of Warragamba and proceed along Farnsworth Ave. It is open seven days a week, there is a visitors' centre at the dam, and guided tours are available, tel: (02) 4720 0349. From the administration centre car park there is an easy 500-m walking track to Folly Creek and Havilands Park. Warragamba village hosts an annual festival celebrating the life of bushranger Bold Jack Donohoe.

 

Tours
There are a number of tour operators who cover the area. Scenic flights are available from Curtis Aviation (02-4655 6789) and Macarthur Air Experience (02-4655 8844), 4WD tours from One Man and a Dog (018-222 149), adventure packages from Australian Extreme Team (02-4677 3133), motorbike tours from Harley Tours (02-4631 1261), transit services for bushwalkers and mountain bike riders from NSW Wilderness Transit Services (02-4681 9094), bushwalking tours from Rockreation (02-4782 6224) and tour guides from Wollondilly Heritage Tours (02-4657 1439).

 

 

 

 

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The Oaks