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The General Store in the
main street of Sofala |
Sofala (and Wattle Flat)
Fascinating and well preserved historic gold mining town
Of all the old gold mining towns in New South Wales Sofala
is one of the most interesting and unusual. While hardly
comparable with
Hill End, which is 35 km further on and much more
carefully preserved, Sofala is a village with an authentic
old world charm. In essence its nothing more than two
streets which have no formal construction and no curbing and
guttering and yet which can legitimately claim to be
'Australia's oldest surviving gold town'.
Sofala is located 245 km north west of Sydney and 45 km
north of Bathurst in the Turon River valley. It came into
existence as a direct result of the goldrush which had been
precipitated when Edward Hargraves discovered gold at
Summerhill Creek on 12 February, 1851. By June that year a
tent city spread across the valley and both the Royal Hotel
and a General Store were built in 1851. By 25 June more than
200 ounces of gold taken from the Turon Valley had been sold
in Bathurst.
The rush was extraordinary. When the local landowner
realised he would never move the miners off his land he
became a butcher and started selling mutton.
In November, 1851 a travelling journalist could report:
'For the most part, Sofala presents to the spectator a
strange jumble of tents of every possible shape: canvas,
calico, slab and bark huts, bough gunyahs and nondescripts.
Among the medley, two circuses are conspicuous. Stores of
every possible description and containing varieties of
merchandise are everywhere, embellished with placards
announcing the best gold prices available. Shoe makers and
blacksmith establishments boasting a large number of
visitors.'
The goldfield was short-lived with the population peaking
at 10,000 in September and dropping to 5,000 by Christmas.
It was a ramshackle temporary town with dozens of pubs and,
at its height, an estimated 500 illegal sly grog shops.
In 1852 there was a brief altercation between miners and
police over mining licenses but it did not amount to
outright rebellion. The miners caved in and the license fees
(30 shillings per month) were retained.
By 1853 visitors were describing the town as little more
than 'wood huts or as they term them shingle, weatherboard,
houses and tents. There were many tents scattered along the
river.'
The fortune of the town was all too brief. By May 1854
there were less than 500 diggers on the field and by 1855,
with new gold discoveries occurring at Wattle Flat, Sofala
was in decline.
By 1856 there were only 325 males and 203 females living
in bark huts and working the goldfields in Sofala. Even
though the town was beginning to reduce in importance the
goldrush had established a substantial infrastructure.
In 1866 a traveller described the town as 'There was a
post and money order office, a telegraph office, a hospital,
court of petty sessions, district court, police camp, gold
commissioner's camp, three churches (Anglican, Roman
Catholic, Wesleyan), two denominational and five private
schools, two hotels (the Sofala Inn and the Barley Mow), a
number of public houses and several extensive stores. There
was a booking office at the Barley Mow for Cobb & Co., where
coaches could be caught for Bathurst, Orange, Lambing Flat
and Forbes. There are branches of the Savings Bank and
Australia Mutual Provident Society in the township.'
By the 1871 census the total population of the town was
644 of whom 81 were Chinese. While mining was still central
to the success of the town it is true that the miners were
covering a greater area and finding smaller deposits.
Between 1899 and 1914 dredges were brought to the valley.
Their success was limited. At one point (it only lasted for
two years) the Sofala Gold Dredging Co. treated 18,000 cubic
yards of wash which yielded 84 ounces of gold.
The history of the town in the twentieth century is one
of constant decline as the gold either runs out or becomes
increasingly hard to extract. In 1948 all gold mining in the
district finished. It had lasted for 92 years.
Things to see:
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The Old Bank of New South
Wales building in the main street
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1. Historical Walking Tour
There is a single sheet guide to the village which is
available from the Sofala Souvenir Shop in the main street.
The Old General Store
With its interesting lacework and its weatherboard
construction the General Store in Denison Street is one of
the town's most notable buildings. It was built in the 1860s
to meet the needs of the local miners.
Royal Hotel
Over the road from the General Store is the Royal Hotel
which was established in 1862. The first Royal Hotel in
Sofala opened on 7 October 1851.
Post Office
Now a private residence the Post Office was built in 1879
and continued operating until 1989. It is a gracious
two-storey building which has been turned into an
interesting home.
Gas Hotel
This hotel dates from late 1851 and, because the foundations
are timber stumps which have sunk over time, the building
looks as though it was knocked together by a very drunk
carpenter.
Court House
This building has changed function three times. It was built
in 1874 as a court house. By 1934 it had become the local
hospital and in the early 1960s it became the Community
Health Centre.
Hylands Hotel
Built on the site of the Globe Hotel (one of the town's
original pubs) it still has the original shingles and
cellar. It is now a private residence.
2. Driving Tours
The Sofala Souvenir Shop has a 'self-drive' tour which
covers a number of interesting destinations around Sofala.
Upper Turon
This drive includes the Church of England cemetery (with
graves dating from 1851), the old Sofala school (1881), the
original hospital (1860s), the original diggings, the
privately-owned Western Goldfields Museum, the Chinese
settlement, Ration Hill and Pennyweight Creek. The
instructions are clear and there is a good map.
Lower Turon
On the same sheet are clear instructions for those
interested in exploring the Lower Turon. This drive includes
Spring Creek, the remains of the 'Queenslander Battery', a
picnic spot where you can still pan for gold and the unusual
Wallaby Rocks - a good place for swimming. Again the map and
the instructions are easy to follow.
Wattle Flat
Wattle Flat is located 8 km south of Sofala on the Bathurst
Road. The main attraction (apart from the old stone church
on the main road) is the 'Buurree Walking Trail' which is a
leisurely 3 hour stroll. The trail is an interesting
combination of fauna (there are many kangaroos in the area)
and flora as well as ruins and remnants of the goldrush era.
There is a very useful pamphlet available from the Sofala
Souvenir Shop.
Turon Technology Museum
About 12 km north-east of Sofala , along the main road, is
the Turon Technology Museum which focuses of power
technologies from the period 1850-1950. This is a
professionally organised, and properly documented, display
spread over six buildings in grounds which cover over an
acre. There are all manner of steam turbines, hot-bulb
engines, internal combustion engines, diesel engines etc.
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Sofala