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Tenterfield Post Office
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Tenterfield (including Wallangarra)
Historic and interesting town on the Northern Tablelands
Tenterfield, 715 km north-east of Sydney and 275 km south of
Brisbane, is a town of deciduous trees which are seen to
best effect in autumn. It is situated in a shallow valley
882 metres above sea-level at the northern end of the New
England Tablelands in an area of rugged mountains and rural
vistas. It proclaims itself 'The Birthplace of the Nation'
as Henry Parkes chose this spot to deliver his crucial
Federation speech of 1889, which led to the establishment of
Australia as a unified nation in 1901.
The Tenterfield area is devoted to sheep and cattle
though orchards, farm crops, a silica mine and a growing
tourism sector all contribute to the local economy. The
current population is 3500.
The original inhabitants, the Jukembal Aborigines,
reputedly called the area 'Moombillen', meaning 'place of
wild honey'. The first European in the area was Allan
Cunningham who passed by about 25 km west of the present
townsite when returning from his exploration of the Darling
Downs in 1827.
The first white settlers arrived in the late 1830s. The
Deepwater station to the south was taken up in 1839 and the
run later known as Tenterfield was first occupied in 1840.
It has been argued that a Mr Templer was the first owner,
naming the property 'Templerfield'.
Robert Ramsay Mackenzie took up the run in 1840 and was
granted legal title in 1842, although he was then in
business with Stuart Donaldson who acquired the property in
1844. Both men later became state premiers. Donaldson
allegedly suggested the name 'Tenterfield' after the
property of two maiden aunts in Scotland.
A bullock dray track to the coast was completed in 1842.
By 1848 Tenterfield covered 100 000 acres. In 1851 Donaldson
fought in the last known duel in Australia against
surveyor-general Sir Thomas Mitchell. After three shots a
draw was called and no-one was injured, though Donaldson's
hat was reputedly shot off. Possibly the duel was
complicated by Mitchell declaring the township of
Tenterfield on Donaldson's station.
From 1847 until the late 1860s most of the wool of New
England district passed through Tenterfield en route to the
coast. Court hearings were established at Tenterfield in
1847. In 1849 a post office was set up and the first
publican's license was issued for the Georges Inn (on the
site now occupied by the Royal Hotel). A townsite was
surveyed on the Tenterfield station that year. It was
gazetted as Tenterfield in 1851, by which time there were
some police buildings and huts. In 1854 the first land sales
took place and a flour mill was built. In 1856 the
population was recorded as 133.
Gold was discovered at Drake in 1858, sparking other
discoveries in the district. This proved a boost to the
township which acquired a bank in 1859 and an Anglican
church in 1860.
The bushranger known as 'Thunderbolt' (Fred Ward) was in
the Tenterfield area in 1868. It is believed he may have
attended the Tenterfield races. One story claims that, after
holding up a group of German musicians who were headed for
Queensland and who pleaded with him not to proceed with the
robbery, Thunderbolt promised that if he had luck at the
horse races he would repay them with interest. He allegedly
obtained their Queensland address and duly sent them their
money back, with interest.
Tenterfield was declared a municipality in 1871. The town
further prospered from alluvial tin mining in the 1870s with
the population almost doubling. 1886 saw the arrival of the
railway.
The most memorable single event in the town's history
occurred at the Tenterfield School of Arts in 1889 when
five-times premier of NSW, Henry Parkes delivered his famous
speech calling for the federation of the Australian
colonies. This is credited with setting off the chain of
events which culminated in the declaration of the Australian
Commonwealth in 1901.
J.F. Thomas, the man who defended 'Breaker' Morant, was a
native of Tenterfield and, for 16 years, was the owner of
the local newspaper, the 'Tenterfield Star' which pressed
for Federation and was the first country paper to advocate
the formation of the Country Party. Poet 'Banjo' Paterson
was married here in 1903 in the timber Presbyterian (now
Uniting) Church.
Noted Australian entertainer Peter Allen was also born
here in 1944 as Peter Woolnough, the grandson of George
Woolnough, celebrated in Allen's song 'Tenterfield Saddler'.
Allen was discovered by Judy Garland in 1964, was briefly
married to her daughter Liza Minnelli, and became highly
successful both in Australia and the United States. He died
in 1992.
The town's Agricultural Show is held annually in January
or February. Other events are Oracles of the Bush, focusing
on the poetry and music of the bush, the Autumn Colour
festival in mid-April, Jack Frost Time in July-August and,
in October, the Spring Wine Festival, the Highland
Gathering, and Springtime in the Highlands (aka The
Federation Festival).
Things to see:
Visitors' Information Centre
The information centre is located at 157 Rouse St (the New
England Highway), on the corner with Miles St. It is open
seven days from 9.30 a.m. to 5.00 p.m., tel: (02) 6736 1082.
Here you can obtain a self-guided heritage walk pamphlet.
Inquiries can be made here concerning group tours of local
orchards, farmstays, and guided tours to sites of Aboriginal
significance within the Bald Rock and Boonoo Boonoo National
Parks.
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Sir Henry Parkes Library
and the School of Arts Building |
Sir Henry Parkes Memorial School of Arts
On the corner of Manners and Rouse Sts is the Sir Henry
Parkes Memorial School of Arts. The building was completed
in 1876 and was used as a working man's institute. In 1889
it became one of the most famous buildings in New South
Wales when Henry Parkes (who had been premier of NSW five
times) delivered a famous speech about the future federation
of Australia. He called for a nation which would be both
cohesive and united. Historians regard this speech as the
official beginning of the movement which culminated in
Federation eleven years later and produced the Australian
Commonwealth in 1901. The museum houses a collection of
Parkes memorabilia. It is open weekdays from 10.00 a.m. -
5.00 p.m., tel: (02) 6736 1454.
Post Office
Over the road is the two-storey, rendered brick post office
(1881), a Victorian Classical building with a metal mansard
roof, arched colonnades and clock tower. Also at this corner
is the Exchange Hotel (1890).
Mill Cottage
At Manners and Crown St is 'The Mill Cottage' (c.1870), a
private residence which was formerly a rendered cement flour
mill from the days when Tenterfield was a major wheat
grower.
Law and Order
Head north along Scott St and turn right into Molesworth St
where you will find the masonry courthouse (1882), designed
by James Barnet, with an outstanding glass skylight. The
trees were planted in the 1880s. To the rear of the
courthouse, facing Martin St, are the gaol with its unusual
masonry dormer, the police station and the brick police and
warden's residences (1874), the whole complex being
integrated by fencing and landscaping.
Rouse Street
At the end of the block turn left into Rouse St. To the left
is the Criterion Hotel (1872). On the other side of the road
is the Masonic Lodge (1877). It was initially headed by
Edward Whereat who, in 1842, stood down from the safe seat
of Tenterfield so that Henry Parkes could re-enter politics.
Cross over Molesworth St. In the next block, to the left, is
the State Bank building (1891).
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The Tenterfield Saddler
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High Street and The Tenterfield Saddler
Turn left into High St, once the town's main thoroughfare.
To the right, at no.123, is The Saddler's Shop which
achieved widespread fame through the song 'Tenterfield
Saddler', written by Tenterfield-born Peter Allen as a
tribute to his grandfather, George Woolnough, who plied his
business here from 1908 until his retirement in 1960.
Made of locally quarried, hand-cut blue granite with
50-cm thick walls, the building was erected in the 1860s and
initially served as a residence before becoming the premises
of the Australian Joint Stock Bank in 1874. In original
condition, the doors and joinery are of red cedar. It is
still a saddlery specialising in quality hand-made saddles
and Australian clothing, open from 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
daily.
Just past the saddlery is Grogans Welding Shop, built in
1867. Opposite are some 19th-century terrace shops.
Centenary Museum and Art Gallery
The Centenary Cottage Museum and Art Gallery is a 7-room
stone cottage erected c. 1871 for blacksmith Michael Egan.
It now houses a local history collection, including
antiquated tools and machinery, both domestic and
agricultural. Petrie Cottage, adjacent, is an old worker's
slab cottage with period furnishings. The two front rooms
were built c. 1860. The museum is open weekends from 12.00 -
4.00 p.m., Wednesdays and public holidays from 10.00 a.m. -
4.00 p.m., or by appointment, tel: (02) 6736 1082.
The art gallery is a memorial to Sir Harry Chauval who
founded the Australian Light Horse Brigade. The money for
the building was bequeathed by his sister Lillian whose own
artworks are held by the gallery.
Clarence and Wood Sts
Head east along High St then veer left into Clarence St. On
the left, at no.14, is Deloraine (1874), a fine stone
building possibly intended by its original owner, William
Patrick, as a synagogue which could serve as the focal point
of the local Jewish community. It is now a
bed-and-breakfast, tel: (02) 6736 3404. Opposite is Market
Square, a pleasant spot for a picnic.
Turn into Wood St. Numbers 92 and 94 date from the 1870s.
The former was once a school. The fine old cork tree in the
next block was brought from England and planted in 1861.
Historic Homes
Turn left into Scott St then right into Douglas St. Almost
to the immediate left is Claremont House, built c. 1875 as
the home of parliamentarian Mr Charles Lee (after whom the
town of Leeton is named) and named after his wife Clare.
Continue down Scott St to Clive St and turn left. At
Clive and Rouse Sts is Stannum (1888), a beautiful Victorian
villa with a Juliet balcony. Built by mining magnate John
Holmes Reid it was once a military hospital. It is now open
for tours and accommodation, tel: (02) 6736 3770, and is
also a restaurant, tel: (02) 6736 3780.
Next door is Salisbury, built by distinguished citizen
Isaac Whereat who founded the Agricultural Society and
served in numerous public offices.
Railway Museum
The Tenterfield Railway Museum in Railway Ave, at the
western edge of town, was built in 1886 when the railway
line arrived at Tenterfield. The complex includes the
station, station master's residence, goods shed, barracks,
railway yard and signalling equipment. The station is made
of stone and brick to a design by John Whitton emphasising
the gables. The interior is largely original, including
cedar joinery.
The station closed in 1989 but has been converted into a
museum with railway memorabilia and a photographic
collection. It is open Wednesday to Saturday from 10.00 a.m.
- 4.00 p.m., Sundays from 12.00 - 4.00 p.m., all school and
public holidays, and at other times by appointment. The
motorised Trikes of Yesteryear operate on Saturdays, tel:
(02) 6736 1082.
Thunderbolt's Hideout and the Brisbane Line
Some of the district's finest attractions lie to the
north-east of town along the Mt Lindesay Road (an extension
of Logan St).
12 km from town is a sign on the left-hand side of the
road indicating the whereabouts of Thunderbolt's Hideout.
The path to the hideout is clearly marked. It is about 300
metres from the parking area. Large granite boulders form
two caves. It is believed that the bushranger Frederick Ward
['Thunderbolt') used the caves because the location offers
an ideal vantage point and attacks on the north-south road
can be planned easily. An information sheet at the visitors'
centre outlines some exploits and local sites associated
with the outlaw.
1 km up the road, to the left of the cement wall, are
some upright posts. Designed as tank traps they are remnants
of the Brisbane Line fortifications from World War II. This
was the second line of defence in case of an invasion from
the north. In the course of the war there were up to 10 000
troops stationed in the Tenterfield area.
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The Woollool Woollool
Aboriginal tour crosses Bald Rock
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Boonoo State Forest and Woollool Woollool Aboriginal
Place
Further up the road, about 18 km from Tenterfield, you will
come to Linbrook Rd, clearly signposted to the right, which
leads through the Boonoo State Forest . Within the forest is
a rest area known as the Basket Swamp and the Bark Hut
Picnic and Camping Area.
Within a 370-ha reserve is Woollool Woollool, an
impressive stone outcrop with one mushroom-shaped rock
protruding above the other boulders (1040 m above sea-level
at its peak). A spot of great natural beauty it is a
designated sacred site of the Bundjalung people. Woollool
Woollool was a 'wuyangali', a clever man with special rights
to this centre of spiritual power. His spirit is reputed to
have returned to the site upon his death, rendering it
approachable for others.
During his 1840 expedition to the coast Thomas Hewitt
noted the feature and decided it resembled the hat worn by
Wellington at the Battle of Waterloo, hence its old European
name of Wellington Lookout.
A dry weather road comes to within 3 km of the site with
a 4WD track leading the remainder of the way. A map is
indispensable, tel: (02) 6736 2540.
Boonoo Boonoo National Park
About 22 km from Tenterfield the Mt Lindesay Rd brings you
to the locality of Boonoo Boonoo. Here a clearly signposted
road on the right heads north-east to Boonoo Boonoo Falls
where the Boonoo Boonoo River gathers in beautiful pools
amidst green forest before plummeting 210 m into the gorge
below. There is a picnic area and a graded walking track
descends from the main parking area to a viewing platform
with excellent views of the gorge and the falls. Poet
'Banjo' Paterson was a regular visitor here just prior to
and after his marriage in 1903.
There are remnants of sluicing operations in the Morgans
Gully area, a reminder of the days when there was some
goldmining in the area. This is located near the park
entrance.
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Looking across Bald Rock
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Bald Rock National Park
5 km further north along Mt Lindesay Rd, the Bald Rock Rd
heads off to the left, leading to the Bald Rock picnicking
and camping area. From here the Bungoona Walk is an easy
2.5-km trek past some interesting granite boulders to the
summit of the aptly-named Bald Rock. Signs and white
markings lead to a more direct route marked up the
north-east face.
Bald Rock is the largest exposed granite monolith in
Australia, being 750 m long, 500 m wide and 200 m high (1341
m above sea-level at the highest point of its featureless
pate).
South Bald Rock, a smaller granite dome, is a mere 5 km
away and can be reached via a marked trail from the rest
area. It is actually west over the state border in Girraween
National Park.
Undercliffe Falls
Mt Lindesay Rd continues northwards to the locality of
Liston (46 km from Tenterfield). At that point there is a
right turn signposted for Undercliffe and Rivertree. When
you come to the fork veer left and after 4 km there is a
right turn signposted for Undercliffe Falls where the water
cascades over a 30-m wide rock face into a deep pool ideal
for swimming in summer.
Wallangarra
19 km north of Tenterfield is the small town of Wallangarra
established in 1888 when the railway line was extended to
the state border. Customs excise officers were immediately
relocated from Tenterfield and Stanthorpe to a purpose-built
customs house where duties were imposed upon those crossing
the border. Resentment of these duties helped to fuel the
push towards federation. It is now possible to go on a
30-minute guided walk through Customs House Corner precinct
and other historic attractions, concluding with lunch or a
picnic, tel: (07) 4684 3488.
Mt Mackenzie Granite Drive
Mt Mackenzie Granite Drive provides a fine overview of the
town and district from several vantage points to the west of
town. It also takes in some of the district's striking
granite outcrops. The 38-km (one-hour) circular route to the
west of town is detailed in a leaflet available from the
visitors' centre which also draws attention to various
sites, including Ghost Gully, a dry creek bed featuring some
interesting erosion formations, and Mt Mackenzie Lookout
(1298 m above sea-level). There is a parking area with
picnic and barbecue facilities at the summit.
Bluff Rock
Bluff Rock, 10 km south of Tenterfield via the New England
Highway, is an unusual granite outcrop rising steeply from
the highway. It is on private property but is clearly
visible from the roadside. There is a rest area on the
northern side. The rock's speckled appearance is owing to
large crystals of pink feldspar.
It is said that in 1844 a shepherd named Robinson was
murdered by Aborigines who ultimately fled to the rock,
pursued by a posse of whites who then decimated the tribe by
throwing them off the top of the rock. Edward Irby, who
named the rock St Swithin's Bluff in 1842, wrote of the
incident: 'The blacks heard us coming and hid themselves
among the rocks. One, in his hurry, dropped poor Robinson's
coat, so we knew we were onto the right tribe. If they had
taken to their heels they might have got away. Instead of
doing so, they got their fighting men together to attack us,
so we punished them severely and proved our superiority to
them'.
Sundown National Park
This reserve along the Severn River spans the Queensland-New
South Wales border and offers excellent bushwalking
opportunities through steep rugged gorges, rainforest,
cypress and eucalypt forest and alongside remote waterways,
although bushwalking is not recommended in summer months due
to excessive heat. Sites to explore on foot include Red Rock
Falls, Mt Lofty, Red Rock Gorge, Nundubbermere Falls, along
the Severn River, Carpenter's Gully, Koina's Tanks
(whirlpool eroded holes in the river), the rocky knowll
known as Rat's Castle, McAllisters Ceek, Mt Donaldson and
Donaldson Creek Falls, Ooline Creek, Blue Gorge, Mt Emily
Creek and Gorge Creek.
The park features over 130 bird species and visitors can
picnic, camp, canoe, swim or undertake studies of the
birdlife or biosystem. Those with a 4WD vehicles can access
the northern section of the park by turning off the New
England Highway at Ballandean from whence it is 14 km along
a gravel road to the park's eastern boundary. From this
point it is anywhere from 7 to 20 km along rough 4WD tracks
to campsites along the river. There are lookouts, a pit
toilet at Red Rock Falls camping area, where the Falls drop
100 metres after rain, and two pit toilets at Burrow's
Waterhole and Rat's Castle. The only water supply is the
river - when it is flowing. Bushwalkers can leave vehicles
just inside the park.
The southern part of the park is accessible by all
vehicles. It is 75 km from Stanthorpe via the
Stanthorpe-Texas Road then 4 km along a good gravel road to
the main campsite. If you are coming from Tenterfield, head
north for 5 km then turn west along the Bruxner Highway. At
Mingoola (52 km) turn right and it is12 km to the park
turnoff. The main campsite is the Broadwater camping area,
which has pit toilets, drinking water, fireplaces, an
information display, caravan sites and bush showers with a
donkey boiler to heat river water. The only time bookings
are required are on long weekends.
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responsibility for the accuracy of any information in the business
provided by vendors or their professional advisers and that they should
make their own enquiries as to the accuracy of this information,
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Tenterfield