The ferry crossing the Clarence River to the north of Ulmarra

 

Ulmarra
Fascinating and historic port on the banks of the Clarence River
Ulmarra is located 635 km from Sydney and 12 km from Grafton on the deep channel side of the Clarence River (which probably means that it will all be washed away one of these days). It is one of those towns you could pass through and think you had missed nothing. The Pacific Highway manages to miss the best part of the town by a block and it leaves the hasty traveller with the impression of a tiny, uninteresting settlement. In fact, if the traveller turns into River St or Coldstream St, the buildings and setting create a fine impression which is redolent of the town's past as a 19th-century river port.

So convincing is the authenticity of the buildings that the Commercial Hotel was used in the television series 'Fields of Fire' as a 1929 Queensland pub. It was neither built in 1929 nor in Queensland - but who cares about such details.

Ulmarra was established when Thomas Small bought the land in 1857. Small's family had been timbercutters but he tried his luck firstly with general farming - they grew maize - and later (around 1865) with sugar cane. By 1871 it had a population of nearly 1000 people. Sugarcane failed and eventually dairy farming started to dominate. It was as a result of this that the town developed as an important river port.

By 1900 Ulmarra was a thriving town with four blacksmiths, a bacon works, an abattoir, a hospital, two schools and three policemen.

 

 

Things to see:  

 

Looking down the street from the Police Station

 

Historic Buildings
Along River St are some older buildings of interest. There is a fine and rare example of a Federation-era single-storey timber courthouse, an interesting timber police station with a wide country verandah around it, a charming timber post office and a particularly grand masonic hall with elaborate doors.

So convincing is the authenticity of the buildings that the Commercial Hotel (built in 1929 and characterised by fine ironwork and a large verandah) was used in the television series 'Fields of Fire' as a 1929 Queensland pub. It is located in Coldstream St which runs parallel to River St. Other structures of interest are the wharf, the council chambers, the old church and a number of other buildings which have remained largely untouched since they were built.

 

Bailey Park
Bailey Park, which runs down to the water's edge, is particularly attractive.

 

The Ferry Crossing
There can be no better way of experiencing the majesty of the Clarence River than to take the vehicular ferry which will carry you the 800 m across the river to Southgate where there is a boat ramp. It departs from a point from the northern end of Ulmarra itself (along the Ballina Rd). However, be warned. The ferry is rickety and small and is therefore unable to carry caravans or coaches. It operates every day from 6.00 a.m. to 11.00 p.m. but there are three 45-minute breaks in the service every day, from 7.45 a.m. to 8.30 a.m., from 11.45 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and from 5.45 p.m. to 6.30 p.m. Furthermore it is closed for maintenance every Sunday from 6.00 a.m. to 8.00 a.m. and on the first Wednesday of each month from 9.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m.

On the wall near the ferry are the 1988 flood levels which give some idea of what the Clarence can be like when it floods. It was here that the original township, Lower Ulmarra, was established.

 

Fishing, Boat Ramps and Houseboats - Brushgrove and Lawrence
The Clarence River Tourist Centre (tel: 02 6642 4677), in South Grafton, possesses two excellent single-sheet pamphlets entitled 'Bass Fishing in the Clarence River' and 'Fishing Around Grafton'. The former contains valuable practical information about the feeding habits of the bass, the times of the day and of the year that are most rewarding and advice concerning lures, tackle, techniques, clothing, accessories etc. The latter looks more generally at the types of fish in the area which can vary with weather conditions. Freshwater species, apart from the Australian bass, are snub-nosed garfish, long-finned eel, estuary perch, eastern freshwater cod, eel-tailed catfish and pink-eye mullet. Heavy rainfall tends to keep marine species (such as mulloway, luderick, dusky flathead and bream) at bay while light rainfall allows them to venture into the area while it puts pressure on the freshwater species to move further upriver. Most of the fish can be caught with bait although the bass and dusky flathead are drawn to lures.

'Fishing Around Grafton' considers the conditions that affect species availability, means of identification, recommended rigging and baits, bag and size limits and scarcity (catch-and-release is strongly urged for female bass and pink-eye mullet, catch limits are recommended for eel-tailed catfish and fishing of eastern freshwater cod is prohibited).

Grafton's Tourist Centre also distributes the 'Clarence River Fishing Guide'. It includes a tide chart and up-to-date information concerning which species are about in which seasons, a list of fishing spots within the estuary and along the coastline and which fish you might find at which specific locations. There is also information relating to beach access, boat ramps, recommended bait types, where to obtain fresh bait, size limits, bag limits, current fishing rules and a list of protected species. However, it looks mainly at the estuary area, east from Cowper, Brushgrove and Lawrence. For further information ring (02) 6688 4356 or email North Coast Maps on grayncm@linknet.com.au

Houseboats can be hired from Clarence River Boats, in Clarence St at Brushgrove on Woodford Island (there is a road bridge across the river at Cowper), tel: (02) 6647 6232. Brushgrove also has a wharf and an hotel.

From Brushgrove you can head in a north-easterly direction towards Maclean, hugging the southern shore of the Clarence River. At Illarwill there is a free 24-hour vehicular ferry which will transport you, and your car, across the river to Lawrence (note that the ferry is closed on Tuesdays from 9.30 a.m. to 11.00 a.m.). Lawrence is a pretty town at the confluence of the river and Sportsmans Creek. The creek is a good spot for bass fishing, canoeing and birdwatching. The sand spits adjacent town are also good for anglers. There are a couple of boat ramps.

Anglers in non-tidal waterways must purchase a licence at a cost of $10 for one month, $25 for one year or $70 for three years. If you have a credit card you can pay for a licence by ringing the NSW Fisheries on 1300 369 365. They publish a pamphlet entitled 'Marine Recreational Fishing in New South Wales'. It looks at official bag and size limits, protected species, permitted gear, spearfishing regulations, penalties and the location of its offices.

 

 

 

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Ulmarra