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The sunken Garden in
Cameron Park |
Wellington (including Montefiores, Lake Burrendong,
the Wellington Caves, Nurea, Bakers Swamp, Arthurville and
Geurie)
Major centre west of the Blue Mountains
The attractive rural centre of Wellington, the second-oldest
town west of the Blue Mountains, is located 369 km
north-west of Sydney and 304 m above sea-level. It is a
relatively large centre having a population of about 5700
with a considerable, and increasing, Aboriginal population.
Located in the Wellington Valley at the junction of the
Macquarie and Bell Rivers and at the foot of Mt Arthur,
Wellington is a very typical Australian country town. The
main street is wide, the town has a large number of
monuments to local people, the park is a delight, with
luxurious stands of cool trees and quiet gardens for the
visitor, and the shopping centre is an interesting mixture
of the 1950s and the 1990s.
Once thought to have been occupied by the Wiradjuri
people, the first European visitor was John Oxley who had
headed north-east after being blocked by reeds in his
exploration of the Lachlan River. He appears to have climbed
Mt Arthur and, from there, gazed down upon what he named the
Wellington Valley, after the Duke of Wellington who had,
just two years before, defeated Napoleon at Waterloo.
Descending the mountain, he came to a small river which
he named the Bell after Brevet Major Bell of the 48th
Regiment. He must have been standing in the future townsite
as he recorded in his journal that he had 'scarcely rode a
mile' along the course of the Bell before he came across its
junction with the Macquarie River. Delighted by its contrast
with the muddy, marshy Lachlan, he wrote of 'bright
transparent water dashing over gravelly bottom..[with
a]..brilliancy equal to the most polished mirror'.
In 1823, inspired by Oxley's glowing report on the area's
agricultural potential, Governor Brisbane sent Lieutenant
Percy Simpson to establish a camp with convicts and
soldiers. It was situated about 3 km south of the present
townsite on the high ground above the Bell River (on the
eastern side of the Mitchell Highway) and was, for a short
time, the only settlement beyond Bathurst. Although wheat
was successfully grown, the settlement was abandoned in
1831, becoming a government stock station then, in 1832, the
headquarters of an Aboriginal mission. Several weather-worn
headstones are all that remain of this site, 3 km south (the
earliest dating from 1825).
The property known as 'Gobolion' (still in existence) was
established in 1824, 5 km north of present-day Wellington.
Charles Sturt stayed overnight at 'Gobolion' during one of
his journeys.
The Macquarie, just east of the Bell River junction,
became a major river crossing used by explorers, settlers
and coaches until 1870. A punt was used when the waters were
high.
In 1831, J. B. Montefiore was granted 5120 acres on the
northern bank of the Macquarie River. In 1840 he subdivided
the western section of the estate and a private village
known as Montefiores was established. All westbound traffic
passed through the village's main thoroughfare, Gipps St.
Cobb & Co used the village as a coach stop. The horses were
changed here after fording the river. Only a few buildings
remain, most notably an inn thought to have been the Lion of
Waterloo Hotel which was licensed in 1842, making it the
oldest licensed hotel west of the Blue Mountains that is
still standing.
Montefiores' greatest claim to fame is that in 1854 the
last duel known to have been fought on Australian soil was
waged with pistols outside the Lion of Waterloo. It was an
alcohol-driven affair. Only one hapless shot was fired
before the constabulary arrived and took the duellers off to
the local lockup.
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Wellington Court House
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A plan for the township of Wellington was first drawn up
in 1839 but objections from Reverend Watson, concerning the
impact it would have on the Aboriginal mission, caused the
village to be established at Neurah, about 20 km south of
Wellington, on the highway. Although some stores and inns, a
school and stockyard were set up, that village never
developed. The old streets can still be seen behind the post
office.
The mission closed down in 1842 and Wellington was
finally gazetted in 1846 and grew slowly from a population
of 29 in 1851 to 1340 in 1881. Cobb & Co established a
service through the town in 1865. Wellington acquired a
reputation as 'the slowest town in the western district'.
The first courthouse and the first bridge over the Macquarie
were both built in 1871. Wellington became a municipality in
1879 and the railway arrived the following year.
A goldrush was sparked about 35 km south-east of
Wellington in 1875. Stuart Town and Mookerawa sprung up with
possibly as many as 6000 persons of a multinational stripe
(including many Chinese) living there at one time.
Operations had pretty much ceased by 1914. Stuart Town was
originally known as Ironbark - the origin of 'Banjo'
Paterson's 'Man From Ironbark'.
Goldmining also commenced at Bodangora, to the north-east
of town, in the late 19th century. By the end of the century
there were three main mines employing 700 men, 2 schools
with 300 students and several churches. The settlement was
originally known, rather poetically, as Mitchell's Creek
Freehold Goldmining Estate and later as Davisville.
Today Wellington is a service centre for the surrounding
district. The principal sources of income are beef, sheep,
wheat, vineyards, the production of agricultural machinery
and tourism. Wellington is also a popular stopover on the
Mitchell Highway.
One truck stopped over in spectacular fashion on January
6, 1989. In attempting to cross the Macquarie River, a Mack
prime mover carrying a trench digger caused the old bridge
to collapse, landing the Mack in the river. Amazingly no-one
was killed. For years afterwards the bridge was being
repaired.
Annual events include the Wellington Boot race day in
March, the Vintage Fair in March and the Festivale week of
celebrations and activities in late October-early November.
Things to see:
Tourist Information Centre and Cameron Park
The town's information centre is located in Cameron Park
which is hailed as one of the best public gardens in NSW.
Lining one side of Nanima Crescent (the town's main street
and a section of the Mitchell Highway), it boasts a sunken
garden and superb rose beds. The lily pond was once a
children's swimming pool. Cameron Park is linked to Pioneer
Park via a suspension bridge over the Bell River.
Wellington has a well-organised visitors' centre, tel:
(02) 6845 1733. There are some fine free publications
outlining the area's attractions, qualities and
accommodation, including 'Historic Wellington', good
material on Wellington Caves, Lake Burrendong, Stuart Town
and Mt Arthur Reserve, and a well-produced pamphlet
outlining the area's farmstay accommodation. Narroogal Park
farmstay offers accommodation in the original homestead
(1832), the convict-built bluestone homestead (1840) and the
main homestead (1880).
Town Walk
The visitors' centre also has a well-produced historic
walking tour pamphlet with an excellent town map. Head north
along the crescent to Warne St and turn left. At the Raymond
St corner is the former Commercial Hotel (1865), now
converted to flats. The town's first building, another
hotel, once stood adjacent.
Head east, back along Warne St to the Percy St corner
where, to the left, you will encounter St Patrick's Catholic
Church (1914). Adjacent is the Convent of Mercy (1896).
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Oxley Historical Museum
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Oxley Museum
Over the road is the Oxley Historical Museum, situated in a
very elegant two-storey brick building erected in 1883 as
the Bank of New South Wales. It became the Catholic
presbytery in 1922. Windora School and Stinson Cottage (an
1851 slab dwelling) have also been rebuilt on the current
grounds.
The journalist Robert Haupt wrote of the museum that it:
'may possibly have a representative sample for every piece
of durable equipment ever employed in the valley.' In other
words it is a typical country town museum. There is a
19th-century kitchen and bedroom and an Edwardian parlour.
It is open from 1.30 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. on weekdays and at
other times by arrangement, tel: (02) 6845 2325 or (02) 6845
1484.
St John the Baptist's Anglican Church
Opposite is St John's, the town's oldest surviving church,
built in 1867 with the transept, chancel and bell-tower
added over the next 25 years. Plans for the original
building were submitted by Edmund Blacket, the designer of
Sydney Universityıs quadrangle and many notable churches in
New South Wales. Why his design was not accepted is a
mystery.
Town Walk Continued
Continue east along Warne St to the Arthur St corner. The
bell in the fire station tower was used in Lieutenant
Simpson's original convict settlement in the area
(1823-1831). It was then retained by the Aboriginal mission
set up on the same site subsequently.
Turn right into Arthur St. At the Swift St corner is the
Hotel Wellington with a fine bell-tower and turret. Turn
left into Swift St and the railway station (1880) is
straight ahead.
Return westwards along Swift St to the Percy St corner,
opposite Cameron Park, where you will find the National
Australia Bank (1881), designed by G.A. Mansfield and built
of stuccoed brick.
Turn left back into Nanima Crescent. At the Maughan St
corner is a high brick wall which once enclosed the original
timber-slab gaol.
Turn left into Maughan St. To the right is the Edwardian
post office (1904) which has an enormous brick-and-stone
arcade that contrasts strongly with the wooden verandah
above. At Maughan and Arthur Sts is the Late Victorian
courthouse (c.1890s), made of brick with stone dressings, a
terracotta tiled roof and an unusual entrance arch. Opposite
is the Federal Hotel (1894).
Turn right into Arthur St. To the right is the Wellington
Public School, retaining the original schoolroom (1885). In
the school yard is Oxleyıs Anchor (one of several donated to
Australia by the British Admiralty to denote significant
sites along the route taken by Oxley). There is also an elm
tree under which, in October 1910, the first meeting of the
famous Gould League of Birdlovers was held. At one time the
Gould League was an organisation joined by just about every
Australian school child.
Just beyond it, at the Maxwell St corner, is St Andrew's
Uniting Church (1907).
Montefiores and the Lion of Waterloo Hotel
At the northern end of town the highway leads over the
Macquarie River. Take the first left after the bridge into
Montefiores St.
In 1831, J. B. Montefiore was granted 5120 acres here on
the northern bank of the Macquarie River. In 1840 he
subdivided the western section of the estate and a private
village known as Montefiores was established. Until 1870 all
westbound traffic passed through the village's main
thoroughfare, Gipps St.
Only a few buildings remain, most notably an inn at
Montefiores and Gipps St. It is thought to have been the
Lion of Waterloo Hotel which was licensed in 1842, making it
the oldest licensed hotel west of the Blue Mountains that is
still standing.
What is thought to have been the last 'official' duel
fought on Australian soil was waged with pistols outside the
Lion of Waterloo in 1854. Today the inn has been restored
and is operating as a licensed tavern with an art gallery
and restaurant. It once served as a changing station for
Cobb & Co coaches.
Cemetery
3 km south of town, along the Mitchell Highway, is a huge
cemetery where stone angels on pedestals gaze down on
departed local residents. Opposite is the graveyard related
to the original European settlement (1823-1831). Several
weather-worn headstones are all that remain of this site.
The oldest is that of Captain Sweeney who died in 1825.
Horse riding
At the gateway a road heads east off the highway, signposted
for Burrendong State Recreation Area. Off this road, 20 km
from Wellington, near Dripstone, are Burrel Creek Trail
Rides, which runs supervised rides over a 1200-acre sheep
and cattle property. There are scenic views and trips to
nearby Macquarie River. Prior bookings are essential, tel:
(015) 935 638.
Lake Burrendong
This side-road also leads to the Burrendong State Recreation
Area, adjacent a huge artificial lake, three and a half
times the size of Sydney Harbour, which was built between
1946 and 1967 to irrigate farmland to the west of the town.
16 km from the highway there is a T-intersection. A right
will take you to Stuart Town and Mookerawa Park. Turn left.
A side road soon appears to the right, signposted
'Burrendong State Recreation Area'. If, instead, you keep to
the left, the main road leads to the dam wall (5 km).
However, before you arrive at the wall there are two
side-roads on the left. The first leads to a lookout with
excellent views over the area. The second leads to the
outlet works, a new hydro-electricity plant and a picnic
area. The scale of the dam wall is best appreciated from
this point. The main road runs alongside the length of the
dam wall and on to the spillway.
If, instead, you take the right at the T-intersection, it
terminates at the Burrendong State Recreation Area. There is
a caravan park as well as bungalows and camping areas,
picnic and barbecue facilities, childrens' play equipment,
boat ramps, and a kiosk with meals, petrol, bait, tackle and
groceries.
Another recreation area on the park's western shore is
Mookerawa Park to the south. Further enquiries concerning
the lake's facilities can be directed to (02) 6846 7435.
Burrendong Foreshore Tours run tag-along 4WD treks which
investigate goldmining relics around the lake. The tours run
on Saturdays at 1.00 p.m. and Sunday at 9.00 a.m. and 1.30
p.m., tel: (02) 6846 7575.
Burrendong Arboretum and the Sport and Recreation
Centre
Just before you reach Burrendong State Recreation Area there
is a side-road to the right that leads to Burrendong
Arboretum and the Sport and Recreation Centre. 1 km down
this road there is a right which leads past the nursery and
information centre at the Arboretum entrance.
Burrendong Arboretum is a 167-ha botanic garden with 2000
species of Australian trees and wildflowers, including
numerous rare and endangered plants. It is open daily from
7.30 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. There are self-guided walks through
areas of special interest (including Fern Gully, a
rainforest-type environment with an outstanding collection
of Australian ferns) and plenty of roads for cycling or
driving. 158 bird species, including emus, roam wild in the
gardens, along with lizards, skinks, tortoises, echidnae and
wallabies. For further information contact (02) 6846 7454.
If you continue south, instead of taking the right to the
arboretum, you will soon come to a left which leads to the
sport and recreation centre where there is a large swimming
pool, tennis courts, football and cricket fields, sailing,
canoeing and other aquatic activities, as well as
accommodation, tel: (02) 6846 7403.
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Contemporary sculpture
outside Wellington |
The Gateway to Wellington
8 km south of Wellington, along the Mitchell Highway, is a
visitor information bay and a piece of contemporary
sculpture which is intended to be symbolic of Wellington and
the surrounding district. The skeletal elements refer to the
large numbers of fossils associated with Wellington Caves,
the dome suggests the sunset, the windchimes reflect the
stalactites of the caves and the pool below them resembles
the confluence of the Bell and Macquarie Rivers. The
seed-pod shape evokes the valley's fertility and the
potential of the district while the 'plants' which emerge
from it refer to the area's growth and the particularity of
its vegetation. The wall and totems reflect the Catombal
Range behind the sculpture while the mosaic panels within
each totem deal with various aspects of Wellington's history
and culture. Both the main structure and the wall are made
from the girders of the Wellington Bridge which collapsed in
1989 under the weight of a heavily-laden prime mover. A
pamphlet available at the Wellington Visitors' Centre
furnishes further detail.
Wellington Caves
8 km south of Wellington along the highway there is a
signposted right which leads to the area's major attraction:
the Wellington Caves Holiday Complex.
The first European to see the caves was probably someone
associated with Lieutenant Simpson's settlement (1823-1831)
but the first written account was provided by the explorer
Hamilton Hume in 1828. He noted: 'The inside of the cave is
beautifully formed, some parts of it are supported by
pillars 50 feet high and beautifully carved by nature.'
Two years later George Rankin, a local magistrate, found
fossil bones of both a diprotodon and a giant kangaroo in
the caves. The diprotodon was herbivorous and its teeth were
well adapted for grazing (although the replica statue
on-site makes it look like a Walt Disney rabbit). It roamed
the area during the Pleistocene period.
Rankin returned later with Sir Thomas Mitchell and
collected a huge variety of bones from the caves which
appear to have acted as a natural trap for fauna. These
remains became the subject of an address by Mitchell to the
Geological Society of London in 1831. Since that time the
cave has been a steady source of information about ancient
geology and fauna, although collapses and other geological
phenomena have splintered and scattered skeletons and,
tragically, phosphate mining from 1913 to 1971 has rendered
priceless palaeontological evidence into fertiliser for
farmers.
The caves were vandalised during the nineteenth century
and it wasnıt until 1884 that they became a reserve. By 1888
over 1500 people a year were visiting them. Today over 50
000 people visit the caves annually.
To get there turn off the Mitchell Highway, 8 km south of
Wellington. As you approach the caves there are a number of
attractions. The Great Western Crystal Cottage is a
substantial exhibition of crystals, gold, amethyst and
gemstones. The Bottle House (constructed from over 9000
bottles) and the car park are to the left. Behind the bottle
house is the garden railway and beyond the car park is an
18-hole golf course and club house, tel: (02) 6845 2130.
Two of the caves are open for inspection (by guided tour
only) - the Cathedral Cave and the Garden Cave. Tours are
held every day but Christmas, on the hour from 9.00 am to
4.00 pm, with no tour at 1.00 pm. There are additional tours
on weekends, public and school holidays so ring the
visitors' centre on 1800 621 614 to check times before you
visit.
The Cathedral Cave is famous for its huge stalagmite
known as Altar Rock which is 32 metres in circumference at
its base and over 15 metres high. It was once thought to be
the largest stalagmite in the world. A visit lasts about 45
minutes and a tour of Gaden Cave takes about 40 minutes. The
latter is noted for its unusual and beautiful cave coral.
In recent times members of the Sydney University
Speleology Club have discovered other caverns in the area.
There are now 26 in the reserve. The most important
discoveries have been the River Cave and Water Cave (both
are submerged) which contain valuable fossils.
The old Phosphate Mine (wheelchair friendly) has been
fully restored and is also open for inspection. There are
currently four tours a day and seven in the holidays (ring
1800 621 614 to check times). No bare feet, thongs or
sandals are allowed in the mine.
There are two books on the caves both of which are useful
souvenirs. The Wellington Caves by Joan Starr and Doug
McMillan covers the whole Wellington area. The photographs
are poorly reproduced. The Wellington Caves and Abercrombie
by Kent Henderson is a detailed description of all the cave
tours for both cave complexes.
Nurea and Markeita Cellars Winery
A plan for the township of Wellington was first drawn up in
1839 but objections from Reverend Watson concerning the
impact it would have on the Aboriginal mission caused the
village to be established at Nurea, 15 km south of
present-day Wellington. Although some stores and inns, a
school and a stockyard were set up, the village never
developed. The old streets can still be seen behind the post
office.
Markeita Cellars Winery is located at Nurea. Wine tasting
and sales are conducted from the cellar, tel: (02) 6846
7277.
Galleries
7 km further south of Nurea along the highway is the Bakers
Swamp Gallery, located in a 100-year-old limestone house
beside the highway, owned by Bill O'Shea who is noted for
his rural painting. It is open seven days from 8.30 a.m. to
5.00 p.m., tel: (02) 6846 7204.
Another kilometre south along the highway, Woodside Lane
is signposted to the right. 4 km along this gravel road is
the Eris Fleming Gallery at the foothills of the Catombal
Range, open from 10.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m., Friday to Monday,
or by appointment, tel: (02) 6846 7221.
Mt Arthur Reserve
Mt Arthur (563 m above sea-level) looms over Wellington. It
is situated within a public reserve, 3.2 km west of town via
Bushranger Creek Road. The reserve takes in three peaks and
covers 1300 ha of bushland which is a sanctuary for a large
number of birds, animals and plants.
Just across Bushranger's Creek, 3 km from Wellington, is
the departure point for the Yarraman Horse riding Trail
which, when completed, will take in a full circuit of Mt
Arthur.
A little further along the road are the entrance gates to
Scenic Drive, which leads past picnic areas and the start of
the Bundari Trail. The road ends at a car park from whence
two more trails depart. All three allow access to the
Binjang and Ningana Lookouts at the mountain's summit,
furnishing spectacular views of the river junction below and
of the mountains and plains of the district. The Apex Track
(3.2 km) is the most accessible.
If you return to Bushranger Creek Road and turn right,
heading west, you will soon come to the Lakeside Picnic
Area, adjacent the old Wellington Reservoir. Three more
trails depart from here: the Bimberdong Trail heads north,
passes by a kangaroo enclosure, and ascends the foothills of
the mountain to link up with the Apex Trail. Opposite the
picnic area the Waterloo Trail and the Trig Trail depart,
together forming one loop track which takes in the Mt
Wellesley television repeater station.
For more information on these tracks, ring the
information centre on (02) 6845 1733. There is a fine
booklet detailing the trails and their routes, as well as
the fauna and flora you will encounter.
Glenfinlass Cellars
8 km south-west of Wellington, along the Parkes Rd, is
Glenfinlass Cellars, open Saturdays or by appointment, tel:
(02) 6845 2221.
Nangara Gallery
9 km along the Parkes Rd, there is a turnoff on the right to
Arthurville. It is another 17 km along a sealed road to
Nangara Gallery at Arthurville. There is a large collection
of Aboriginal artifacts from around Australia. Viewings are
by appointment only, tel: (02) 6846 3463.
Angora Tourist Farm
If you continue along the Parkes Rd, past the Arthurville
turnoff, there is soon another turnoff to the left. After 15
km this takes you past the Yeoval turnoff on the right. A
few kilometres further on is the Angora Tourist Farm where
there are angora rabbits, plus alpacas, deer, camels, emus,
ostriches, kangaroos and buffalo. You can see the rabbits
being shorn of their valuable fleece. Meals and devonshire
teas are available in the Rabbit Trap Restaurant. Bookings
are essential, tel: (02) 6846 4039.
Ponto Falls and Geurie
8 km north-west of Wellington, along the Mitchell Highway,
there is a turnoff to the left which leads, after a further
8 km, to Ponto Falls, an attractive spot beside the
Macquarie River. 20 km from Wellington along the highway is
the small village of Geurie which has a few interesting old
buildings, together with Aladdins Cave (a second-hand shop)
and Buckenbah Gallery.
Cobb & Co Heritage Trail
The historic inland coaching company, Cobb & Co, celebrates
the 150th anniversary of its first journey in 2004 (and the
80th anniversary of its last, owing to the emergence of
motorised transport). The trailblazing company's
contribution to Australia's development is celebrated with
the establishment of a heritage trail which explores the
terrain covered on one of its old routes: between Bathurst
and Bourke.
Cobb & Co's origins lay in the growing human traffic
prompted by the goldrushes of the early 1850s. As the
Heritage Trail website states: 'The company was enormously
successful and had branches or franchises throughout much of
Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Japan. At its peak,
Cobb & Co operated along a network of tracks that extended
further than those of any other coach system in the world
its coaches travelled 28,000 miles (44,800km) per week and
6000 (out of their 30,000) horses were harnessed every day.
Cobb & Co created a web of tracks from Normanton on the Gulf
of Carpentaria and Port Douglas on the Coral Sea down to the
furthest reaches of Victoria and South Australia in all, a
continuous line of 2000 miles (3200km) of track over eastern
Australia from south to north, with a total of 7000 miles
(11,200km) of regular routes' (see www.cobbandco.net.au).
Wellington shire contains a number of Cobb & Co related
sites such as changing stations, track routes, crossings,
disused hand-built roads, collapsed bridges, and hotels of
the coaching days, such as the Lion of Waterloo pub, the
Royal Oak and the Sportsman's Arms.
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responsibility for the accuracy of any information in the business
provided by vendors or their professional advisers and that they should
make their own enquiries as to the accuracy of this information,
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Wellington