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The Hawkesbury River near
Windsor Bridge |
Windsor
Major centre on the Hawkesbury River with much historic
interest and charm.
Governor Lachlan Macquarie was a great builder and dreamer.
He established the five Macquarie towns in the Hawkesbury
Valley - Windsor, Richmond, Castlereagh, Wilberforce and
Pitt Town. Of all these towns it is Windsor which stands as
a monument to Macquarie. There is a current school of
thought which claims that what modern development has done
to Windsor is disgraceful. Certainly the modern bridge, the
wide road which mixes historic houses with service stations,
the modern malls and the refusal to keep this old town in
some kind of pristine condition is shameful. However, what
is left, particularly St Matthews Church, the Court House,
Tebbut's observatories, the graveyard at the church, and the
numerous buildings dating back to the early nineteenth
century are all of interest to anyone who wants to grasp
what life was like in the colony's third settlement.
Of course Windsor pre-dates Macquarie. As early as 1789
Governor Phillip had explored the district and, although it
was considered isolated, the colony's need for food and the
richness of the alluvial Hawkesbury river flats, ensured
that settlement occurred.
Windsor can claim to be the third European settlement in
Australia after Sydney Cove and Parramatta. Named after the
famous royal town on the Thames, and originally called Green
Hills, it was settled in 1794 when 22 settlers took up land
and a road from Sydney was constructed.
Five years later the area was providing Sydney with half
its grain requirements. The problem was that the river
flooded regularly. Thus, when Macquarie had plans drawn up
for the town in 1810 he specifically located it on a ridge
above the Hawkesbury River which had flooded in 1809 causing
considerable devastation to the whole area.
Today Windsor, located only 57 kilometres northwest of
Sydney, is the commercial and administrative centre of the
Macquarie Towns. Yet, its street patterns and its numerous
historic buildings (combined inevitably with lots of shops
for tourists) make it a marvellous town to explore.
Things to see:
Hawkesbury Museum and Tourist Centre
A suitable starting place for any visit to Windsor and
Richmond is the Hawkesbury Museum and Tourist Centre located
at 7 Thompson Square (enter the town on the Windsor Road
which becomes Bridge Street, turn left at George Street -
Thompson Square in one block along). It is open from 10.00
a.m. - 4.00 p.m. and has an excellent range of material
about all the Macquarie towns as well as maps and
descriptive walks around Windsor and Richmond.
Before you explore the town have a careful look at the
Museum's displays which include Aboriginal artefacts as well
as chronicling the European settlement of the area from
earliest times (including a plan for some farms which dates
back to 1794) through the development of the town after 1810
to the river economy of the nineteenth century and the
development of the RAAF base at Richmond.
There is a remarkable photograph of the Hawkesbury Museum
Building in 1879 which shows an uninterrupted view of the
river and no development at all. The museum was built in the
1820s and used as an inn before becoming the office of 'The
Australian' newspaper from 1871-1899. For more details (02)
4577 2310
Historic Windsor
Thompson Square
Thompson Square is a good place to start any visit of
Windsor. Apart from being an excellent example of an early
nineteenth century town square it is also a symbol of the
changes which occurred in the colony during the time of
Lachlan Macquarie.
Macquarie Arms Hotel
If you return to George Street and walk west you will pass
the Macquarie Arms Hotel, built in 1815 and, apart from the
period between 1840-1874, used continuously as a hotel. If
its use had not been interrupted by this 34 year period when
it became a private residence it would be the oldest
continuously run inn in Australia. In his journal on 12
January 1812 Governor Macquarie recorded 'I gave Mr
Fitzgerald a large allotment in the Square on the express
condition of his building immediately thereon a handsome
commodious Inn of brick or stone, and to be at least two
stories high.'
Over the years the building has undergone many
alterations which have obscured the original structure.
However, on the museum side there is a mark on the wall
indicating the level reached by the 1867 floods.
Loder House and other buildings
On the other side of the road, near Kable Street, is Loder
House which was built in 1834 by George Loder, a large and
successful landowner in the district. Loder never actually
lived in the house which has now been converted into the
Governor¹s Choice Restaurant.
Further on are the old CBC Bank (corner of Kable and
George Streets), the Windsor Post Office (corner of
Fitzgerald and George Streets) and Mrs Copes Cottage.
Details about these buildings, and many more, are available
on the walking tour brochure available from the Museum.
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St Matthews Historic
Church (designed by Francis Greenway)
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St Matthews Anglican Church
Eventually you will reach one of the highlights of the town,
the superb St Matthews Anglican Church, known affectionately
as the 'Cathedral of the Hawkesbury'. It is widely
acknowledged as one of the best works of the great convict
architect, Francis Greenway. Built by convicts between
1817-1820, the site was chosen by Governor Macquarie. The
huge square tower is an impressive landmark which can be
seen for many kilometres.
The church's gravestones offer a fascinating insight into
the early life of the town. No gravestone is more
interesting than that of Andrew Thompson who died in 1810,
had Thompson Square named after him, and had his inscription
drafted by no lesser figure than Governor Macquarie.
Macquarie wrote: 'Sacred to the memory of Andrew Thompson
Esquire J.P. and Chief Magistrate of the district of
Hawkesbury a native of Scotland at the age of 17 was sent to
this country at the time of his arrival he distinguished
himself by persevering industry and diligent attention to
the commands of his Superiors. By these means...to a state
of respectability and affluence...enabled him to indulge to
the generosity...in assisting his Fellow Creatures in
distress...More particularly in the Calamitous Floods of the
river Hawkesbury in the years 1806 & 1809 and at the risque
to his life...& permanent injury to his health he exerted
himself each time...successive Days & Nights in saving the
lives...who but for him must have perished. In consequence
of Mr Thompson's good conduct Governor Macquarie appointed
him J.P. This act which restored him to that rank in Society
which he had lost made so deep an impression on his grateful
Heart as to make him bequeath to the Governor the 4th of his
Fortune. This most useful and valuable man closed his
earthly career on 22nd day of October 1810 at his House at
Windsor of which he was the principal Founder...37 years of
age.'
Macquarie makes no mention of the range of historic
firsts achieved by Thompson. He was a convict who arrived in
Australia in 1792 after being transported for fourteen years
for stealing cloth worth £10. He subsequently became the
first emancipist appointed as a magistrate and was the first
person buried in the cemetery at St Matthews. A truly
remarkable man.
Windsor Court House
If you return towards Sydney on Macquarie Street, just after
you turn towards the bridge over South Creek you¹ll notice
Court Street on the left. On the corner of Court Street and
Pitt Street is the Windsor Court House, another building
designed by the great convict architect, Francis Greenway.
It was built in 1822 and, after considerable alteration,
restored to its original glory in 1960. Its warm sandstock
bricks and stone lintels and its excellent portrait of
Lachlan Macquarie make it one of Windsor's most appealing
historic buildings.
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John Tebbutt's
Observatory |
John Tebbutt Observatory
Continue on down Court/North Street and turn right into
Palmer Street to visit the John Tebbutt Observatory. It is
located on Palmer Street. Tebbutt, a gentleman farmer and
talented amateur astronomer, was born in Windsor in 1834. In
1845 his father built the house in Palmer Street which John
inherited in 1870.
The 'Australian Dictionary of Biography' entry on Tebbutt
explains his lifelong fascination with astronomy and his
achievements. 'Tebbutt bought his first instrument, a marine
sextant, in 1853 and he had the use of a clock with a
seconds pendulum which he regulated by celestial
observation...In 1863 at the Peninsula he built with his own
hands a small wooden observatory.
'Tebbutt calculated the circumstances of the total
eclipse of the sun of 26 March 1857 when conditions proved
cloudy and made a series of measurements of the position of
the comet Donati for which he calculated the orbit. On 13
May 1861 he observed a faint nebulous object with his marine
telescope; a few days of observation showed that it was in
motion and he announced the notable discovery of the great
comet of 1861, one of the finest comets on record‹at one
stage it had a tail which could be traced for over 100
degrees.'
In 1879 he built a substantial brick observatory. Both
the wooden and the brick observatory still stand and the
house, built in 1845, is still owned by the Tebbutt family.
Tebbutt achieved particular fame in 1984 when it was decided
to include his portrait on the $100 note. The observatories
are open for inspection to groups of ten or more.
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Windsor